Club Italy Vacation 2023 Day 15

Friday, June 16, 2023

After breakfast the owner gave us a tour of his property, Torraccia di Chiusi where we had been enjoying our stay. He and his wife have renovated the agriturismo (farmhouse) and the buildings on the property into their personal home, a hotel with rooms and suites, restaurant, a small spa, and also made their own organic wines.

The owner talking to us on our tour of his property.

Below was one of the buildings on the estate that wasn’t renovated. The owner told us that the building below demonstrated what all of the buildings on the estate looked like when he and his wife purchased it in 2002!

The building on the estate that our group stayed in was about 500 years old. They did an excellent job with the renovations.

Our rooms in the 500 year old building.
The side of the estate.
Another view of some of the property.

The Tower was over 1,200 years old and the home of the owners. Our tour included their home.

The tower that was over 1200 years old.

At the top of the tower you could look out over the countryside and see anyone who approached along the Via Francigena, the route from Canterbury to Rome and onto the seaside city of Apulia, Italy.

From the tower I was able to take a great picture of San Gimignano!

San Gimignano

Stefano, the owner spent a lot of time showing us around and explaining the history here. When they were doing repairs to a sewage treatment plant on their property his wife saw something and had the workers stop and she dug and found an Etruscan bronze statue that dated from the 3rd century B.C.! It was speculated that an Etruscan temple was once here. The statue was now in a museum as well as the other items that they have found. Below is Donatella, the wife of Stefano, and a picture of the poster with her and the statue.

Etruscan Bronze statue with Donatella

There also was a chapel on the property.

Stefano took us to the ancient wine cellar that he accidentally found. It was covered by layers of soil.

After our tour we wanted one more chance to visit San Gimignano. It also had been nicknamed “the Manhattan of the Middle Ages” because of its many towers!

Walking into San Gimignano

Today we explored other areas of the city and past the main square, Piazza del Duomo.

Piazza del Duomo

Along the border of San Gimignano there were some fantastic views that looked out over the countryside.

On our walk we found a local woman sitting outside her home just relaxing.

One of the quiet side streets.

When we left San Gimignano we stopped at a winery for one last tasting. Pietraserena Winery was the fourth generation of winemaking by the Arrigoni family.

The wine tasting patio had wonderful views of the vineyards and the surrounding Tuscan countryside.

When we got back to the villa we enjoyed some time at the pool.

At dinner we had the sparkling wine because we were told by our chef at our cooking class how Torracccia di Chiusi was known for their sparkling wine and how delicious it tasted. Julia opened the Goccia D’Pro Spumante Classic Method.

None of our group were champagne drinkers but we all enjoyed this sparkling wine.

It was our last dinner at the villa and Bruno, the chef, came out to serve us our last shot of Grappa after our delicious meal that he had prepared! Grappa was an alcoholic pomace brandy from Italy that had a high alcoholic content. It was served to help with digestion after heavy meals.

Cheers to our amazing meals and time together!

We will miss the hospitality, delicious meals, outstanding staff, and owners at Torraccia di Chiusi!

Club Italy Vacation 2023 Day 14

Thursday, June 15, 2023

Today we had booked in advance a wine tour and 4-course lunch with wine pairings at the Banfi Winery. It was an hour and a half drive from our B&B to the winery.

The entrance drive to Banfi Winery Estate south of Montalcino.

We arrived early so we parked our vehicles and had time to look around the castle.

The Castello Banfi was originally the castle of Poggio alle Mura and was reconstructed in 1438. It was dated back much farther, between the 9th and 13th centuries. They also believed it once was a settlement of the ancient Etruscans because excavations have found some stone urns and ceramic vases that dated to that time period, so even further!

It was damaged during WWII and when it became part of the Banfi estate in 1983 it was restored to its beauty. The estate had a hotel, 2 restaurants (one with a Michelin star), an enoteca (wine shop), the Balsameria, and a glass museum.

The hotel and restaurants were very expensive. One night at the hotel would be over $1,000.00. Definitely out of our budget. But the grounds were beautiful and the buildings elegant, even in the wine cellars!

We met our guide and followed her to the Balsameria!

Our guide

When we walked in the Balsameria building we could smell the balsamic vinegar!

The balsamic vinegar barrels are made from different wood and as the vinegar ages it goes from a larger barrel to a smaller barrel. The order of the barrels were oak, chestnut, cherry, ash, and lastly mulberry. The entire process took 12 years. We had some of this balsamic vinegar at our lunch wine tasting and it was delicious. A small bottle sold for fifty Euros ($56.20)!!!

We then went to our vehicles and followed our guide to head to the processing plant and wine cellars. The view from the estate was beautiful.

Brothers John and Harry Mariani founded Banfi in 1978. Banfi got its name from the brothers great Aunt’s name. The estate included 7,100 acres of land. One third was single vineyards and the rest was made up of olive groves, fruit trees (mainly plums), woods and scrub.

It took about fifteen minutes to get to the plant and cellars.

When we got to the winery processing area we were quite impressed with its state of the art technology.

There were 7,000 customized barrels here. We saw beautiful chandeliers and glass displays as we walked among the wine barrels.

After our tour we drove back to Castello Banfi for our 4-course tasting menu in the La Taverna restaurant. It was located under the vaulted arches of the former barrel cellar of the castle.

When we walked out of the restaurant we saw a lot of classic convertible cars lined up along the entryway of the estate.

After our day at the Banfi Winery we drove back to Torraccia di Chiusi and read and/or relaxed by the pool.

We enjoyed the evening with some wine, cheese, and snacks together.

Club Italy Vacation 2023 Day 11

Monday, June 12, 2023

Our adventure today took us to the medieval walled town of Montepulciano. It was a town known for its wine, the Vino Nobile. The wine was made from sangiovese grapes that were grown there.

Montepulciano

We parked the vehicles and walked up into the town. Montepulciano’s medieval architecture hasn’t changed since the 1500s.

We stopped at the historical town center, Piazza Grande. It was a large square in the center of town and flat. All of the other streets from this piazza slope down the hill.

A portion of Piazza Grande

The Nobili-Tarugi Palace was located on the Piazza. It was built in the early 16th century as the residence of the De Nobili family and later by the Tarugis.

Nobili-Tarugi Palace

The Town Hall, Palazzo Comunale, was also located along the Piazza. It dated from the late 14th and early 15th century. It was built originally as a palace and then later became the city hall.

Palazzo Comunale
The Town Hall was in the background.

The Well on the Piazza had the Medici coat of arms as well as Griffins and Lions. The two lions sitting on top represented Florence and on either side of the lions sat a griffin that represented Montepulciano.

The Cathedral Saint Mary of Assunta was consecrated in 1712 and sat on the site of an ancient church of Santa Maria. The bell tower was from the 15th century. The outside of the church was very plain because the marble was never added as planned. Inside was a 1401 gold-hued altarpiece by Taddeo di Bartolo.

Cathedral of St. Mary

The Medici Fortress was located at the highest point of town and had been rebuilt several times. It was first built in the 8th century and what we saw dated from 1261!

Part of the Medici Fortress & wall

On the facade of the medieval Benincasa Palace was a bust of Gian Gastone de Medici (1671-1737). He was the 7th and last Grand Duke of Tuscany.

The il Corso was about a mile long and ran through the historic old town. The Corso began at the city gate and ascends to the Piazza Grande. There were narrow streets in the old town.

As we explored the town we stopped into La Dolce Vita, a wine tasting, bar,restaurant and wine store. It opened in 2005 and was located inside an historic building dated to the 13th century. It was a cool place to look around in.

Because Montepulciano sits high on a hill there were some terraces that offered breathtaking views of the countryside!

You could also see the Temple of San Biagio. It sat outside the city walls of Montepulciano and was built by Antonio da Sangallo who was an architect from Florence. It was built between 1518-1545 and was considered a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture.

I used my Find Me Gluten Free app to find a restaurant with gluten free options. We enjoyed a wonderful lunch at AI Quattro Venti. Locals ate here which was always a good sign. The gluten free gnocchi and gluten free bread was yummy. Those in our group who ate gluten really enjoyed their meals too!

After leaving Montepulciano we stopped at the Azienda Agricola Canneto winery for a glass of their wine. Canneto AG of Zurich purchased the estate in 1987 from a family that for generations had a great reputation of wine-making. The wines were certified organic since 2017. Of course we tried the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano that was grown here.

We went outside and enjoyed our glass of wine as we looked over the estate! It was very relaxing.

There was some rain and then the sun came out when we were back at the villa. A beautiful rainbow appeared.

This evening some of our group read and others played Euchre and recapped our day.

Club Italy Vacation 2023 Day 7

Thursday, June 8, 2023

Since we were up so early yesterday, we relaxed at our villa where breakfast was included in our stay and it was quite a spread each morning.

Chris and Dave were busy planning out our adventures. Chris did a lot of research on the medieval towns around the area.

Chris and Dave busy planning.

Late morning we left for San Gimignano which was the town we could see from our villa. The city was named after the bishop of Modena, San Gimignano who they believed saved the city from Attila the Hun.

There are 14 remaining of the 72 towers that originally existed. These were tower houses that symbolized wealth and power of the owners.

It originally was an Etruscan village and it’s location along the Via Francigena pilgrimage route allowed it to grow. The Via Francigena was an ancient road/route from Canterbury in England, through France, Switzerland, and through Italy to Rome and on to Apulia which had ports for embarkation to the Holy Land.

San Gimignano’s historic center is a UNESCO world heritage site.

We visited the Collegiata, a Roman Cathedral.

Collegiata

The frescoes in the cathedral date from the 14th century.

After our visit of the church, six of us climbed the Torre Grossa’s 214 steps, the tallest tower in San Gimignano. It was 177 feet tall. Its walls are a little over 6 feet thick. It was worth the climb to experience the panoramic views of the city.

San Bartolo church was anciently dedicated to St. Matthew. This church went under complete reconstruction in 1173. It was devoted to St. Bartolo who was a local saint who died in 1299.

St. Bartolo Church

It was always worth stopping in to wine shops to have a wine tasting or just to enjoy a glass!

San Gimignano was known for its Vernaccia di San Gimignano wine which was made from white wine grapes. In fact, I read that is was so famous that it was even mentioned in Dante’s Inferno.

Below were some pictures from our exploration of the town.

After a fun time spent in San Gimignano, we had purchased some wine, cheese, and salami to enjoy at the villa in the evening because we had a late lunch in the town.

It was another great day!

Club Italy Vacation 2023 Day 5

Tuesday, June 6, 2023

This morning we had to be up early to check out of our hotel in Rome and carry our luggage over to the Metro station. We rode the Metro with our luggage to the main terminal exit.

Waiting for the subway.

From the terminal we found the track that our high-speed train would arrive on and then take us to the Firenze S.M. Novella stop.

At the Florence Airport we got off the train with our luggage and then boarded the Metro to take us to the airport!

Our 3rd mode of transportation today!

When we arrived at the airport the guys left and took the rental car shuttle to pick up our van and car. When we first planned our trip we were hoping to rent one 10-12 passenger van. When we checked with Italy’s car rental agencies we were told you had to have a special bus driver’s license to drive any vehicle that carries 10 or more passengers. Therefore we had to rent two vehicles, a nine passenger van and a five passenger car.

After loading both vehicles with our luggage, we headed for our villa outside of San Gimignano, Torraccia Di Chiusi. It was our 4th mode of transportation!

The last two miles of our drive to the villa was gravel and because of all of the rain that they have had there were many potholes and uneven surfaces! Below are pictures from around Torraccia Di Chiusi.

Our room!

We all loved our rooms, the staff, and the grounds of the villa.

Our key to our room!

It was around 3:30 PM when we arrived at the villa. This evening we were going to eat dinner there and it was served at 8:00 PM. Since we hadn’t had anything to eat since morning, we talked to Maria, the manager, and she had the kitchen make up two meat and cheese trays with fresh bread for our group. Of course, we also had several bottles of their wine. It was the perfect “happy hour”!

The grounds were beautiful and the scenery was spectacular.

Right by our villa was the Via Francigena Toscana, an ancient pilgrimage route. It was a 1300-mile long route in the Middle Ages from Canterbury through France, Switzerland and Italy before reaching Rome. We met a couple that was hiking part of the route.

After dinner some of our group played Euchre, some read, and others found that sleep was calling their name. It was a long day of subway, train, and cars so it was an early night for most!

Greece- Land of Gods and Heroes Day 10

Monday, November 15, 2021

We were awake early and watched the sunrise from the balcony of our room. It was beautiful.

Our first stop today was the Prophet Elias Monastery which was located on the highest peak of Santorini. We had gorgeous views of the island. The Monastery was built in 1712. It suffered a lot of damage from an earthquake in 1956.

The views of Santorini from the summit of Mount Profitis Ilias.

Santorini produces wine and it is considered to be the best in all of Greece. They say it is because of the mineral content of the volcanic soil! Ancient grape seeds were discovered and the people of Santorini have been wine makers for at least 3,500 years.

The grapevines here are twisted into a round shape and the grapes are tucked inside to protect them. It looks like a grapevine basket. You do not see the vines growing up along fencing. It is definitely very different. This technique called kouloura protects the grapes from the wind and hot sun.

We walked through the village of Pyrgos which is located at the foothills of Mount Profitis Ilias. Pyrgos is the largest preserved village on Santorini and it is pretty much ignored by the tourist industry and the villagers are glad.

Our next stop was Agios Georgios which is known for its black sandy beach along the Aegean Sea! We had lunch at the Demilmar Restaurant Beach Bar. Our lunch was very good and we enjoyed the view.

Near the restaurant we found the ruins of an early Christian Basilica of Ayia Eirini from the 5th century AD. Ayia is the Greek word for Saint and Eirini means Irene. It is believed that Santorini’s name came from this.

Our next stop was the wine museum and wine tasting at Koutsoyannopoulos Winery. We only had time to walk through the museum because part of our group was late because one of the restaurants was slow getting the food prepared and served! Below are a few pictures from the museum.

Some of the oldest producing vines on the island are around 400 years old! Before we tasted each wine, one of the employees explained about each wine and its pairing with food. We tried four different varieties. The Koutsoyannopoulos Winery was founded in the late 19th century and is family owned through four generations. We enjoyed our tasting! Our first white wine was a dry wine made from the assyrtiko grape which is indigenous to the island of Santorini. The second wine was another white wine called, Experimental Orange wine. Next was a red wine aged in an oak barrel, Ambelones. Our last wine was a 2006 Dessert wine, Kamaritis.

After we left the winery our bus dropped us off in Oia to walk around and watch the sunset. The sky was displaying many colors, from pink, yellow, and orange, as we experienced another gorgeous sunset!

When we returned to the hotel we were ready for dinner. We walked close to a mile to a restaurant that was suggested for us to try but it wasn’t opened yet so we walked a little farther and found Cacio e Pepe restaurant. It was Italian cuisine and the food was delicious!

After dinner it was back to the hotel to do our paperwork for “Fly Ready” with Delta. We needed to upload our negative PCR result with the QR code, our fully vaccinated card and our passport. After several tries we received an email that we were set. We did our final packing because our luggage had to be outside our room very early in the morning. We will hate to say goodbye to Greece!

Rhine River Cruise Day 6

Monday, November 4, 2019

Our morning was relaxing on the ship as we sailed from Koblenz to Cochem.

This afternoon was spent with a city tour of Cochem and a visit to the Reichsburg Castle.  Our guide was very bubbly and did a good job of showing us the city.

Our guide in front of the Stammbaum der Stadt, a ceramic mosaic by Carlfritz Nicolay.

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Cochem mosaic wall that illustrates the history of the city.

Cochem has documented its flooding on the walls in the city.

As we walked through the town we saw many half-timbered homes.  It was such a beautiful town.

Below is the fountain that commemorates the trial of a goat for stealing grapes.

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The fountain is in beside the St. Martin Catholic Church which was built around 1130.  Parts of the church were destroyed during WWII but have been rebuilt.

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Some more pictures from our walk through Cochem.

After our walking tour we boarded small buses to go up the twists and turns to visit the Reichsburg Castle.

The Reichsburg Castle is not the original castle that stood on the hill in the 12th century.  The original castle was destroyed by the French King Louis XIV in 1689.  It was in ruins until a wealthy businessman from Berlin bought it and rebuilt the castle in 1868.

We also had a tour inside the castle.  It was beautiful.

Below are some of the interior rooms of the castle.

The views from the castle are amazing.

We also had a wine tasting of 3 wines from the Cochem area.  They did give choices between semi-dry and dry white wines after our first tasting which was a sweet white wine.

At dinner it was pirate night and the waiters and servers were dressed up and the tables and menus were a mess!

The evening was a lot of fun.  They did an Amadeus Raffle For 10 euros and you got 5 tickets!  Dave won twice!  The first time was a necklace and the second was a kitchen towel with a recipe on it!  It was another fun-filled day along the Rhine River.