This morning we drove from Killarney to explore the Dingle Peninsula. Our first stop at the Aghadoe View which is famous for its sweeping panoramas of Lough Leone, the Lakes of Killarney, and the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks mountains.
Aghadoe View
The clouds did not cooperate with us this morning.
Near the Aghadoe View is the ruins of the Aghadoe Cathedral. It is from the 12th century and overlooks the Lakes of Killarney.
Aghadoe Cathedral ruins
We passed through Milltown on our way to Castlemaine.
Main Street in Milltown
Milltown is located near the Ring of Kerry and is situated on the Iveragh Peninsula. It is a small urban town.
The Castlemaine Harbour is located at the head of the Dingle Peninsula.
Looking across the Castlemaine HarbourCastlemaine Harbour from another angle
In 1990 Castlemaine Harbour became a protected nature reserve. In the town center was a statue of the legendary Jack Duggan. He was a fictitious bushranger from a folk ballad. Castlemaine claims it was his legendary birthplace.
The Wild Colonial Boy (Jack Duggan)
Inch Beach is located on the Dingle Peninsula. It is a little over three miles of sand and dunes. It is popular for swimming, surfing, and fishing.
Dingle Bay
Our next stop was the Annalack Viewpoint along the Dingle Bay Peninsula. This scenic outlook offers views of the surrounding rolling hills and lush greenery.
Slea Head Drive starts and ends in Dingle. Parts of this drive is narrow and one lane only in parts. One of the most iconic stops on Slea Head Drive is the White Cross that shows the crucifixion. It is located between the rugged cliffs and the Atlantic Ocean.
White Cross Crucification on Slea Head Dr.
Looking down the steep cliffs of Slea Head Dr.
From the “White Cross” we could see the Blasket Islands. They are a small archipelago of six islands and other smaller islands. These islands are Ireland’s and Europe’s most westerly point.
Blasket Islands in the distance
One of the Blasket Islands looks like a “Sleeping Giant” or “Sleeping Monk”. Does this island look like a giant that is sleeping to you?
Sleeping Giant
Blasket Islands
We made a stop at the Lios Stone Circle and Animal Feeding along the Slea Head Dr. The animals at the pet farm included sheep, lambs, goats, kids, horses, pigs, donkeys, and llamas. We walked around the grounds and fed the animals. We all enjoyed our time here.
This was another Discovery Point along the Wild Atlantic Way that looked out at Coumeenoole Bay.
Dingle Bay
Scenic countryside as we drove along the Dingle Peninsula.
We stopped in the town of Dingle. It is a port town that sits on the scenic Dingle Peninsula. We had time for lunch and some exploration of the city.
Dingle Marina
Dingle was busy with tourists and finding a place for lunch that had open tables wasn’t easy. We found the Dingle Marina Inn Bar and Restaurant. They didn’t have tables but we could sit at the bar and order food.
The Dingle Marina Inn Bar & Restaurant
The Fungie Statue was a bronze memorial to Dingle’s most famous resident, a wild dolphin. The dolphin interacted with locals and tourists from 1983-2000.
The Dingle Dolphin
At the Dingle Pier is a Rope Sculpture that was finished in 1995. It was two piles of bronze rope in a snake like fashion.
Rope Sculpture
This evening when we returned to Killarney we all went to dinner together at The Porterhouse Restaurant. We were celebrating one of our travelers, Donna’s birthday. It was an enjoyable dinner and celebration!
After breakfast at the hotel we went for a walk before our driver would be picking us up. We walked past the courthouse that serves the Circuit and District Courts.
Killarney Courthouse
In front of the Killarney Courthouse was a bronze monument by Don Cronin of life-sized red deer stags locked in confrontation. It was unveiled in 2012.
Red Deer of Ireland Monument
The weather was foggy and misty when we stopped and looked out at Derrycunihy. It is a nature reserve known for its geographic features in the Killarney National Park. It is located along the famous Ring of Kerry in southwestern Ireland. In the first picture it looks at the Killarney National Park and in the second picture it looks at the Looscaunagh Lough.
The weather didn’t cooperate at the Ladies View scenic viewpoint along the Ring of Kerry. The name stems from the admiration of the view given by Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting during their 1861 visit.
Ladies View
Our next stop was to view the Torc Waterfall. In Irish “Torc” means wild boar. It is also located in the Killarney National Park and is along the Ring of Kerry.
It is a five minute walk from the road through scenic woodland to reach the waterfall.
The walk up to the waterfall.
The waterfall is 66 feet high as it cascades over boulders and is 360 feet long. It is formed by the Owengarriff River as it drains from the “Devil’s Punchbowl” which is a glacial lake in the Mangerton Mountain.
Torc Waterfall
Enjoying Torc Waterfall
We toured the Muckross House and Gardens. The house was constructed from 1839 to 1843.
The house and its surrounding lands were donated to the Irish state in 1932. Queen Victoria once visited Muchross House. Below are a few pictures from the grounds of the house, inside, and the servant’s kitchen area.
On the grounds of Muckross is a Craft Center. We stopped in after our visit to the house to see them throw pottery and weaving. Unfortunately they were finished for the day but you could still see the workshops.
We had a Jaunting Car ride today. I had to look up what it was ahead of our trip to Ireland. It is a 2-wheeled carriage for a single horse with a seat in front for the driver. It is a great way to explore Killarney National Park.
Our Jaunting Car and driver
We had an enjoyable ride through Killarney National Park.
Killarney National Park is home to the Muckross House and Gardens, the Lakes of Killarney, Inisfallen Island and more. It covers 26,000 acres and sits at the foot of the Macgillycuddy Reeks (Ireland’s highest mountain range).
Located by the park’s visitor center was a memorial to Monsignor Hugh O’Flaherty. He lived from 1898-1963 and grew up in Killarney. In Rome during WWII he organized an escape organization for Allied POW’s and civilians. He and his colleagues had saved over 6,000 lives when the Allies arrived in Rome.
The park includes mountains, lakes, islands and flatlands.
Wild Irises can be found blooming throughout the park.One of the Killarney National Park Lakes.
Red deer can be found here but we only saw Sika Deer. The Sika deer is also known as the Japanese deer and they were introduced from Japan in 1865. The herd has grown to over a thousand.
Sika Deer
As we rode through the park we could see Ross Castle which is also located in Killarney National Park.
Ross Castle
The National Park is home to the most extensive area of natural oak woodland still remaining in Europe. You can also find the Arbutus (Killarney Strawberry tree) in the park. UNESCO designated the National Park as a Biosphere Reserve in 1981.
Our Jaunting Car ride ended at Ross Castle. The castle was built in the 15th century and is located by the Lough Leane which is the largest of the lakes. It is surrounded by a defensive Wall with flanking towers and two still remain.
Ross Castle
We boarded our boat for a cruise of the lakes by the Ross Castle. Due to the cloudy, rainy conditions the boat wasn’t crowded.
From the boat we could see the castle and get a different perspective.
This cormorant is cooling off its feathers as we cruised by it.
A cormorant
Martin went on the boat cruise with us and he spotted the eagle. He was SO excited and we were too!
The Brickeen Bridge dates back to the mid-18th century and is a stone arch bridge that connects Muckross Lake and Lough Leane.
Brickeen Bridge
On Lough Leane we saw Inisfallen Island. It was once home to a monastery dating back to 640 AD founded by Finian the Leper. The island was a place of solitude for the monks to reflect and pray. Today there are ruins of a 12th century Augustinian Priory and a Romanesque Church.
Inisfallen Island’s Ruins
Even though the sun wasn’t shining we enjoyed our time on the water!
Purple Mountain – red sandstone
On our way to the hotel Martin pointed out the only green light in town that is shaped like a shamrock! He drove slowly so we could snap a picture.
Shamrock Green light
After dinner we went into Buckley’s Bar for a drink with friends. We were enjoying our drink when the music duo sat next to us to begin playing their music!
An accordian player and singer/guitarist
They asked us where we were from and when the four of us said Ohio. They sang a special song, “Banks of the Ohio”!
This morning we walked along Lahinch’s promenade to the Celtic T-shirt shop. The Atlantic Ocean was really rough. We had to watch out for waves that came over the sea wall.
The Celtic T-shirt shop is family-centered. We met the artist who created the silk screen shirts we purchased. The shop opened early for us and we were appreciative of the owner making this accommodation!
CelticT-Shirt Store
This plaque was placed on a business wall adjacent to the Wild Atlantic Way on the 50th anniversary of a US B-24 Liberator’s emergency landing on the beach. The aircraft was running low on fuel and didn’t have radio contact.
Plaque commemorating 50th anniversary of B-24 bomber’s landing
We drove by the Ennistymon Cascades of the Inagh River. We could hear the water cascading across the rocks. It is the most photographed natural attraction in Clare. The river flows over a ridge of rocks toward the bay and then on to the Atlantic Ocean.
Ennistymon Cascades
Our next stop was a visit to Bunratty Castle and Folk Park that sits on 26 acres.
Map of Bunratty Village
This is the 15th century Bunratty Castle. The site where it stands was once a Viking trading camp in 970. This castle is the last of four castles to be built here.
Bunratty Castle
The Folk Park adjoins the castle and portrays what everyday life was like in rural Ireland about 100 years ago. It is a living museum. The village has over thirty buildings that contain reconstructed farmhouses, cottages, and shops. We wandered the streets of Bunratty Village.
The Golden Vale is a 19th century restored farmhouse where a properous farmer and family would have lived.
In a restored Artisan home was the O’Neill Jewelry and Pottery store. You could buy handmade jewelry by Shirley O’Neill and her family had been making pottery for many years. Each piece is unique.
We stopped in the Doctor’s House.
We walked up to the Bunratty House which wasn’t opened. It was built in 1805
The gardens and pathways were well maintained. We walked the entire grounds.
The Ardcroney Church was part of the Church of Ireland. It was built in 1838 and was moved to Bunratty in 1998.
Ardcroney ChurchInside the church
The Vertical Water Mill is a reconstructed 19th century. It is operational and uses a vertical waterwheel to turn the grinding stone. It uses traditional Irish engineering.
When we left the village we stopped by the Adare Manor Golf Club. As we approached we saw the Adare Desmond Castle from 1200 AD that is located on the edge of the village of Adare and sits on the banks of the River Maigue.
Adare Desmond Castle
The castle is a beautiful backdrop to the 1st and 15th greens at Adare Manor Golf Club.
The Adare Manor Golf Club is an 18 hole championship course and will host the 2027 Ryder Cup. The Ryder Cup is held in September and is a match between Europe and the USA. There is a gate to drive into the Club and is manned by a well-dressed gatekeeper.
Martin talked to the guard and he let us through so our golfers could visit the Pro Shop.
Martin saw the owner of Adare Manor Golf Club and had his picture taken with him! JP McManus is a billionaire who also is a businessman and racehorse owner.
JP McManus owner of 2026 Ryder cup golf course and Martin
While our golfers were in the Pro Shop Martin drove the rest of us to the Adare Heritage Village. It is lined with traditional thatched-roof cottages. We had lunch in the cafe at the Heritage Center.
On our way to Killarney we made a stop at the Barnagh Viewing Point. It is a scenic spot with panoramic views. On a clear day you can see the fertile pastures of the County Limerick, Golden Vale and into the Counties Cork and Clare. It was an overcast day for us.
Barnagh Viewing Point
Newcastle West overlooks the winding River Arra. We drove through the town center and saw the Desmond Castle.
Desmond Castle and Banqueting Hall
The Desmond Castle is a historic complex from the 12th century and located in the city center. It was built by the Earls of Desmond and was occupied until the 1930s. Its main feature is its two-story banquet hall.
It was early evening when we checked in to the Arbutus Hotel in Killarney. It was in a great location for exploring the city.
These are a few pictures from inside our hotel! The Arbutus Hotel was established in 1926 by Tim Buckley and his wife Julia. The hotel is still family run. They named it after the only tree native to Ireland, the Arbutus. Tim Buckley also liked that the hotel name began with an “A” because it would appear earlier in brochures and pamphlets!
Once we dropped our luggage we met others to begin exploring the city and find a place for dinner. As we walked we stopped and did our tradition of spelling Ohio with our arms.
O-H-I-O
Near the car park in Killarney was a mural painted on a gable wall by artisits Adam and Darren Warren. It illustrates Killarney’s past.
Mural in Killarney
As we walked we were impressed with the workers who were scrapping, cleaning and painting the poles along the roadway in the evening.
Workers on the main street of Killarney
We found a restaurant named Hilliard’s that opened in 2022. It once was a well-known department store. People would come from all around to shop here. It was a department store where you could buy anything and it was of good quality.
The Hilliard’s sign on the building is from 1917.
The Drapery department is where the new restaurant is located and the cocktail bar stands where the shoe department was located.
Our meal was delicious.
On the menu they mention the history of Hilliard’s.
After dinner we walked back to our hotel. Left our coats in our room and went down to Buckley’s Bar which is part of the Arbutus Hotel.
Buckley’s Bar is a traditional Irish bar with live traditional music. The bar has oak paneled walls, a turf fire and serves bar food. We enjoyed a drink and listened to a trio perform. The musicians just sit at a reserved table and begin playing. The bar is known for having some of the country’s finest musicians drop in for an unplanned jam session!
After our drink we were ready for some sleep for tomorrow’s adventures.
Today we were heading to the Cliffs of Moher. On our way we passed by the Lahinch Golf Club. It is a links course and was founded in 1892. The old course is often referred to as the St. Andrews of Ireland.
Lahinch Golf Club
The Cliffs of Moher tower up to 700 feet above the Atlantic Ocean and offer incredible views! They are located on Ireland’s west coast. The Cliffs of Moher gets its name from a ruined promontory fort “Mothar”. It was demolished during the Napoleonic Wars in the early 1800s. The word “Mothar” in old Gaelic means the ruin of a fort.
The cliffs stretch for five miles. On a clear day you can see the Aran Islands, Galway Bay, the Twelve pins and the Maum Turk mountains in Connemara. Looking South you can see the Dingle Peninsula and Basket Islands.
Since 2011 The Cliffs of Moher have been a UNESCO Global Geopark.
Called the “Baby cliffs”
We met our guide for the Cliffs of Moher hike. Her name was Becky.
Becky our guide from Ollie’s Tours
The wind and off-and-on rain was going to be a challenge for our hike along the Cliffs of Moher. Our guide and Martin talked and decided we would do the walk downhill.
Part of our trail
Our hike wasn’t the five miles we were anticipating but 3.2 miles. The walk was a highlight even though it was windy and sometimes moderate rain. The cliffs have been featured in movies like Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince, The Princess Bride and Leap Year.
We hiked past the ruins of a famine village. The potato famine in Ireland was between 1842-1852.
Famine village- 5 one room homes
These pictures illustrate various parts of our hiking trail.
We saw a lot of coastal vegetation and wildflowers.
Common spotted orchid
The cliffs date back 320 million years. Geological features can be found along the cliffs like the distinct horizonatal bands of rock, sea stacks and sea caves to name a few.
We saw Doonagore Castle from the Cliffs of Moher trail. It was a 16th century round tower house that sits on a hilltop and is privately owned.
We went by the Dough Castle. It was an ancient Irish fortified tower. It originates back to the 14th century. It was founded by the O’Connors clan then the Lords of Corcomroe in 1306. It served as the main fortress. All that remains is a wall.
Ruins of Dough Castle
After our hike we had a little time before our 50 minute Cliffs of Moher Cruise. Unfortunately it remained cloudy and drizzly.
One of the cruise boats
Martin got reservations for us to have dinner at Vaughn’s Anchor Inn which opened in 1979 in Liscannor.
After dinner those of us that did the Cliffs of Moher hiking trail were ready to return to the hotel and relax! Tomorrow will be another busy day!
After a delicious breakfast in the Lough Rynn Castle restaurant we are headed to Galway. On our drive we passed some Irish turf that was drying.
Irish Turf
Irish Turf is also known as peat. It is composed of partially decayed vegetation (like mosses and grasses) and accumulates in bogs. The turf is cut from bogs into long rectangular blocks and dried. It is burned as a fuel source for heating and cooking. For centuries is was the main heat source in rural Ireland.
Irish government wants it left to take CO2 out of the air
Martin, our driver/tour director stopped along the road to show us wild cotton that was growing on the side of the roadway. It felt soft and was fluffy.
Wild cotton
We drove through the village of Roosky on the River Shannon.
River Shannon in Roosky
Galway is located halfway on the Wild Atlantic Way and it is the only city on the route.
Galway city center
When we arrived it was lunchtime so we walked to a restaurant that was suggested to us by Martin. It was called The King’s Head. It is located on High Street in the Latin Quarter of Galway. It resides in an 800 year old building that was once home to the mayor of Galway in 1654. In the front bar of the pub is a 400 year old fireplace!
Best of all our food was delicious. After lunch we walked to Thomas Dillons which is home of the original Claddagh ring. Several of our travelers purchased the ring and others purchased earrings.
We also had some time to do some exploring before we needed to leave Galway.
The AIB (Allied Irish Banks) building housed Lynch’s Castle. It is a 16th century fortified Gothic townhouse that has been preserved. Its exterior facade has intricate stone carvings, decorative windows, gargoyles and the coat of arms of King Henry VII and the Lynches.
We walked around the Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas located in the city center and is over 700 years old. It was the largest medieval parish church in Ireland. It was completed in 1320 and was dedicated to St. Nicholas of Myra, the patron saint of children (Santa Claus). It was also said that Christopher Columbus stopped in the church and prayed there in 1477.
Our next stop was to our hotel in Lahinch at the Lahinch Coast Hotel. Lahinch is a small seaside town along the Wild Atlantic Way.
Our hotel for two nights.
Once we checked in and freshened up we all met to go to dinner. We walked to the Corner Stone Pub located on Main Street.
The Corner Stone Pub
While we waited for a table some of us walked down to the Lahinch Promenade. You can stroll along the Liscannor Bay and the Atlantic Ocean.
It wasn’t long before our table was ready at the Corner Stone Pub. They served traditional home cooked meals which were delicious.
Corner Stone Pub’s Bar and a delicious Gluten Free Irish dish
Dave and Martin discussing tomorrow’s activities
After dinner we were going to walk along the Lahinch Promenade but these little and very annoying fleas were all over us so instead we walked back to our hotel.
This morning we are checking out of our hotel in Derry, Northern Ireland and working our way to Mohill in the Republic of Ireland.
We made a quick stop at St. Eugene’s Cathedral in Derry. It was built in the 19th century and opened in May, 1873. A Roman Catholic cathedral couldn’t be built until the passage of the Roman Catholic Relief Act in 1829 where the United Kingdom’s parliament removed the legal requirement to swear faith to a specific religion or sect that barred the Roman Catholics in the UK and Ireland from building a cathedral.
St. Eugene’s Cathedral opened without a bell tower, spire, or stained glass windows due to a lack of funds. In the late 1890s stained glass windows were installed and the spire and bell tower were added by 1903. We stepped in quietly because a mass was occurring.
After visiting St. Eugene’s Cathedral we visited a cashel, the Grianán of Aileach. A cashel in early Irish history refers to a circular ringfort. It is located on the summit of Greenan Mountain. On a clear day you can see quite a distance, across Lough (lake) Swilly, Lough Foyle and the countryside. This morning it was drizzling and foggy so our views weren’t that spectacular.
The Grianán of Aileach was originally constructed before 800 AD. It was built by Áed Oirdnide, king of Cenél nÉogain which was a small kingdom located by the Inishowen peninsula. Building the fort here the king could view both his Inishowen and see his newly won territories. Grianán of Aileach was considered the king’s stronghold.
Grianán of Aileach
It was reconstructed in the 19th century. Its walls are 15 feet thick and 16 feet high. Inside are three terraces which are linked by steps and two long passages within it. We did not climb the steps due to the wet, uneven stones.
Benbulben’s tabletop is part of the Dartry Mountain range. It is said that fairies live here!
Tawnawully Mountains which are part of the Bluestack range.
We passed by the Classiebawn Castle located on the west coast of Ireland and the Harbour at Mullaghmore along the Wild Atlantic Way which is a 1600 miles coastal driving route along Ireland’s western coast.
It was the holiday home of Louis Mountbatten who was a member of the British Royal family who was assassinated close by in 1979. It is currently privately owned.
Classiebawn Castle
Nearby the castle was the Mullaghmore Cliffs Viewpoint along the Wild Atlantic Way. There were breathtaking views of the rugged Atlantic coastline. The waves were really big but our pictures don’t illustrate just how big.
We made a stop at Mullaghmore Beach. It’s a white sand beach that spans almost 2 miles and is also located along the Wild Atlantic Way. It is known for its dramatic coastal views and world-class surfing. When we stopped by the tide was out!
We visited St. Columba’s Church in Drumcliff. It was built in 1809 and stands where a medieval monastery once stood.
We stepped inside the church and the congregation was enjoying Fellowship after the service. The church walls have memorials and one belonged to Pastor John Yeats who was Rector at Drumcliffe long before his famous great-grandson visited.
Inside the church
These memorial doors were donated in 1989 by the W.B. Yeats Society of Western Australia to commemorate the famous W.B. Yeats.
The famous poet/writer W.B. Yeats was born here and is buried in the church graveyard. He was reinterred here in 1948 almost a decade after his death in France in 1939 in accordance with his last wishes.
W.B. Yeats grave
The picture below was the sculpture was unveiled in 2003 and was inspired by the poem “He wishes for the Cloths of Heaven” by W.B. Yeats.
These are the words on the sculpture.
The sculpture has four elements. The first was the Figure and it is crouched over the blanket. The second was the Blanket which represents the dreams and aspirations of the Cloths of Heaven. The third was the Light Tower which was similar to the Plain Cross Shaft. The fourth was the Stone Seating which invites viewers to rest and dream their own “Cloths of Heaven”.
We ended our day at the Lough Rynn Castle Hotel where we would be spending the night.
Entrance Gate
Front of Lough Rynn Castle
Back of Lough Rynn Castle
It is located between the lakes of Lough Rynn and Lough Eril. The castle was built on the land that has the remains of the Mc Raghnall’s Castle from 1474 AD.
Looking at the grounds from the back of the castle.
The lobby entrance.
Below are some photos from the interior of the castle.
Our rooms were located in the Eastern Range which was formerly the residence and stables of the Estate Manager who was responsible for looking after Lord Leitrim’s gardens, grounds, and guests.
Estate Manager’s homeOur roomThe hallway in the Estate Manager’s home
We walked the Walled gardens on the estate. The first tier was the working garden where fruits, vegetables, and herbs are grown and then used in the hotel restaurant. The gardens were just beginning to bloom but it was still beautiful to wander through the tiers that ended at the River Rynn.
The native Irish Honeybees have a history at Lough Rynn Castle. The honey that is collected from the hives is featured in the breakfast menu at the Estate’s restaurant. Reverend Joseph Digges became the private chaplain to the Earls of Leitrim on the estate. Many consider him to be the Father of Irish beekeeping. He chaired the Irish Beekeepers’ Association from 1910-1921.
Dinner in the Castle restaurant
After our delicious meal in the restaurant on the estate we went for a walk around the grounds and gardens.
Our first stop after a ride around Derry was the Guildhall. It is located in the heart of Derry since 1887. It was built by the Irish Society.
The Guildhall
Guidhall was the scene of many bombings during the Northern Ireland Troubles. One IRA (Irish Republican Army) bomb in 1972 destroyed the artwork. Original plans were still on file and the shattered windows were duplicated.
Just a sampling of the stained glass windows in the Guildhall.
The main hall was set up for a wedding that was occurring later in the day. It is a gorgeous space.
The Guidhall is also home to the City’s Council’s chamber and Mayor’s parlour.
Council ChamberThe beautiful ceiling in the Chamber
A time capsule was found during the Guildhall restoration. It was a sealed glass container that dates back to 1887. It contained documents and coins.
In the hallway was a statue of Queen Victoria created by Francis John Williamson. It was unveiled in 1898 and carved from marble. During the “Troubles” in June, 1972 it was damaged in two IRA (Irish Republican Army) bombings. She lost her crown, sceptre and hands. You can still see shrapnel marks on her side!
Queen Victoria
Above I mentioned the Troubles. It was a violent sectarian conflict in Northern Ireland between the Protestant unionists (loyalists) and the Roman Catholic nationalists (republicans) that lasted from the 1960s to 1998. This will be discussed later in this post when we visited the Free Derry Museum.
Our guide for the Guildhall was Chris. He was excellent. He also was an artist and four postcards in the gift shop were of his work. We purchased two that we have framed and displayed in our home.
Chris Walker and his postcardsChris giving us a tour.
John Hume was an Irish nationalist politician in Northern Ireland. He was an instrumental figure in the Good Friday Agreement signed in 1998 that ended 30 years of sectarian conflict also known as the Troubles. He won the Nobel Peace Prize among other awards for his non-violence approach to ending the conflict.
Peace Bridge
The Peace Bridge is a cycle and foot bridge that connects the two sides of the River Foyle. It opened on June 25th, 2011 and is 771 feet long. It is a symbol of triumph over adversity and is a symbol of peace.
All of us on the Peace bridge with the city center behind us.All of us on the Peace Bridge with Ebrington Square behind us.
Our awesome driver/guide Martin walked with us on the Peace Bridge.
Below is the Harbour House or Harbour Commissioner’s Office. It is a sandstone building from 1882 and now is the headquarters of the Derry City Council’s Heritage and Museum Service.
Derry’s Harbour House
The Derry Girls mural is located on the side of Badger’s Bar and Restaurant. The mural features the popular cast of the award winning show, Derry Girls (it is available on Netflix). The show follows five secondary school students and how they navigate their teen years in the 1990s amid the Troubles in Northern Ireland.
Derry Girls Mural
We met our guide for a walking tour of the Derry Walls Heritage Trail near the Diamond War Memorial. It was erected in 1927 and located on The Diamond in the center of Derry. It is dedicated to those citizens who lost their lives during WW1.
The walls were built between 1613-1619 as fortification and protection. The walls are one mile in circumference and provide an elevated vantage points to view the Renaissance style streets and the Bogside.
The Free Derry Museum tells the story of the working-class community, long oppressed, rose up to demand justice and equality. It has up to 20,000 items related to this critical period. The museum wants visitors to see the struggle for human and civil rights. It honors the memory of those who fought and died for their rights. It discusses the parallel between the civil rights movement in the United States and in Derry. It is a moving museum.
Outside the museum the sound waveform of “We Shall Overcome”
The sign below was first painted by a local activist in 1969 after sustained attacks on the Bogside community. Bogside was home to Catholic workers since the 19th and 20th centuries. It represented a “no go” zone for the British authorities and the Royal Ulster Constabulary from 1969-1972. It is a symbol of social justice.
“Free Derry” painted sign
There are twelve Bogside murals that are painted in the Bogside area of Derry. The murals have become known as “The People’s Gallery. We have photos of all but two, The Hunger Strike Mural and the Tribute to John Hume Mural.
Bloody Sunday Mural– was painted in 1997 to commemorate the 25th anniversary of “Bloody Sunday” on January 30th, 1972.
Bloody Sunday Mural
The Saturday Matinee Mural– it was completed in January, 1999 on the 27th anniversary of “Bloody Sunday”. It contains the portraits of the 14 people who were killed by the British Army. Each oak leaf symbolizes one of the victims.
The Saturday Matinee Mural
Bernadette Mural– was painted in 1996 and depicts Bernadette McAliskey (Devlin in 1969) addressing the crowds on the streets of Bogside. She was later sentenced to prison.
Bernadette
Death of Innocence– The girl in the mural, Annette McGavigan, was 14 years old when she was killed on September 6th, 1971. She was shot by a British soldier while standing on the street where she lived. The mural was unveiled in September, 1999. The artists added some finishing touches in 2006.
Death of Innocence
The Civil Rights Mural– It was unveiled in 2004. It commemorates the beginning of Derry’s struggles for democratic rights.
The Civil Rights Mural
Peace Mural– It was completed in 2004 and it commemorates the hope for continued peace.
Peace Mural
Operation Motorman– The mural was completed in 2001 and depicts some of the events that happened during “Operation Motorman” on July 31st, 1972.
Operation Motorman Mural
The Saturday Matinee Mural– This mural was started in 2001 and depicted a typical riot scene and many times these occurred on Saturday afternoons.
The Saturday Matinee Mural
The Runner Mural– This mural was the last created and was unveiled in July, 2006. It shows tear gas being released and it was used a lot during the Troubles.
The Runner Mural
Besides the “People’s Gallery” of murals, the Bogside serves as an open-air museum with multiple poignant memorials to activists who were killed, hunger strikers who died and those who perished fighting for their civil rights. Please go through this slide show to see what Martin, our guide, explained to us as walked the area.
After a busy and emotional day in Derry the eleven of us gathered in the hotel bar for a drink. One person tried our hotel’s craft beer, “the Barking Bishop”! It’s an IPA crafted in collaboration with the Bishop’s Gate Hotel which is where we were staying. You can only buy it at the hotel.
Don with his beer.
We met in the lobby with snacks and drinks and relaxed. It was a great way to unwind after our day in Derry!
As we left Belfast, Martin (our driver) took us on a tour of Belfast of areas we didn’t see yesterday. We drove through the Ulster University, Belfast campus that was located in the Cathedral Quarter of the city. It was the largest university in Northern Ireland.
We made a quick stop to visit the Belfast Castle that sits at the foot of Cave Hill. From the castle and its landscaped gardens one can look over at Belfast and Belfast Lough (long wide expanse of water). Unfortunately when we stopped in the morning it was foggy and the views weren’t very good.
Belfast CastleBelfast Castle Gardens and the city of Belfast in the distanceBelfast Castle GardensBelfast LoughFireplace in Belfast CastleBeautiful staircase
We followed the Causeway Coastal Route and as we passed “The White Lady” made from sea stack. A sea stack is created from many years of coastal wave and wind erosion.
The White Lady
The Carnlough Harbour is a focal point of the small picturesque Carlough Village. If you are a Game of Thrones fan it is a must see stop because of filming there for season 6.
In Cushendall we saw the bronze statue created by artist Deborah Brown of a goat named Johann standing on a rock. It is located near the harbour and is in memory of the last victim of Foot and Mouth disease (2001). In recent years the locals have been dressing Johann in a knitted sweater.
Cushendall Harbour
The scenery was spectacular as we traveled the Coastal Route along the northern coast of Ireland.
We made a stop at Portaneevey Viewpoint located in Ballycastle, Northern Ireland. From here it looks out over several islands. The first island was Rathlin Island. It was inhabited with about 140 people. The island is six miles long and one mile wide.
Rathin Island
Sheep Island was uninhabited and located near the coastal village of Ballintoy. Its name comes from old local practice of grazing sheep that were placed there in the summer so thieves wouldn’t steal them. It is now a wildlife sanctuary.
Sheep Island
Carrick-a-Rede is the third island we could see from this viewpoint. It has a rope bridge that spans the Atlantic Ocean. The rope bridge was built in 1755 to assist fishermen to access the island and their salmon fishing nets. The rope bridge spans a little over 65 feet and is 100 feet above sea level.
Carrick-a-Rede Island and its rope bridge
One fisherman’s cottage on the island.A close up of the rope bridge.
We continued our drive along the Causeway Coastal road and stopped at the Giant’s Causeway. It is a geological wonder and in 1986 became a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The Giant’s Causeway
It was formed by volcanic activity over 60 million years ago. The Giant’s Causeway is made up of over 40,000 perfectly shaped basalt columns. There also is a legend that Finn McCool, an Irish giant, built the stones as part of his pathway to face his Scottish rival in battle.
It’s an .8 of a mile walk from the Visitor Center to the Giant’s Causeway. The site offered a bus ride down and back. To save time we opted for the bus ride down and back. When we were finished exploring the site we were in line for the bus to go back up the road. As we were waiting for the next bus, an emergency Coast Guard vehicle and officer arrived. We quickly learned that someone had fallen and was hurt badly. Because more emergency vehicles would be coming down the road, the bus was suspended for an unknown amount of time. Our group then walked the .8 of a mile up the road.
Views of the coastline as we walked back up the road.
Once we were all back to the Visitor Center we met our driver and headed to get a late lunch in the town of Bushmills. Martin recommended a cafe and we went in and had a wonderful meal.
A few of our travelers are golfers and close by was the Royal Portrush Golf Club. We made a quick stop so the golfers could visit the pro shop. Portrush courses overlook the ruins of the Dunluce Castle and golf has been played here since 1888. It has hosted the country’s first amateur and professional tournaments.
Our next stop was Dunluce Castle. The castle is located on the jagged cliffs perched 100 feet above the Atlantic Ocean.
View of the cliffs from the castle to the East.View of the cliffs from the castle to the West.
The first castle was built in the 13th century and the current structure was built between the 16th and 17th centuries. The castle has a turbulent history of clan warfare. It was inhabited by both the feuding McQuillan and MacDonnell clans.
Dunluce Castle appeared in the Game of Thrones if you are a fan. It served as the primary filming and reference for Pyke the stronghold of House Greyjoy on the Iron Islands.
We arrived in Derry and checked into our hotel. We walked around town and then found a pub for dinner. Bishop’s Gate is an arch we walked by. It is located within Derry’s 17th-century city walls and is one of four original entrances. It was rebuilt in 1789 as a memorial to King William III and it marks the spot where the deposed King James II was denied entry in 1689.
Bishop’s Gate
Some of Derry as we explored on our way back to our hotel.
This morning we checked out of our hotel in Dublin to head toward Belfast. We met our driver Martin and the van we would be riding in for the rest of our trip.
Our first stop was to tour Newgrange. We had tickets for the first tour of the day.
Map of the area
We had time to explore the visitor center, Brú na Bóinne before heading out to catch our bus that would take us to Newgrange.
The eleven of us waiting for the bus to Newgrange.
We crossed the River Boyne on our way to the site.
River Boyne
Newgrange is a world heritage site. It is a 5,200 year old Neolithic passage tomb in the Boyne Valley. It was built by Stone Age farmers.
Our guide
Newgrange
The circular mound was 279 feet in diameter and 43 feet high. The stone built passage leads to an inner chamber with three recesses.
Entrance to Newgrange
The stone built passage was 62 feet in length that leads to the inner chamber. The passage and chamber are precisely aligned with the rising sun at the Winter Solstice. This has made Newgrange famous worldwide. We were able to go into the chamber which was tight in some places but while we were in there our guide simulated the light from the sun coming through the 62 foot passage and lighting up the small inner chamber. No photos were allowed in the chamber.
97 kerbstones (blocks of natural stone that was around the edge of Newgrange). The kerbstone here was carved with Neolithic megalithic art.Looking out from Newgrange across the valley.
Notice the stick fencing that was used in the valley. We thought it was really cool.
After Newgrange we visited Monasterboice Cemetery.
Here we saw the Muiredach’s High Cross or also known as the South Cross from the 10th or maybe the 9th century. It was located at the ruined monastic site. It was an example of early medieval Irish stonework.
Muiredach’s High Cross
On our drive to Belfast we passed by several bright yellow fields of Canola. These yellow flowers are used to create canola oil and high-protein livestock oil.
Canola Field
We are now in Northern Ireland and on our way to Belfast, the capital city. Its name came from Beile Feirst (Gaelic) which means “the mouth of the sandy ford”. It is the largest city in Northern Ireland and known as the birthplace of RMS Titanic.
Our next stop was to tour the Titanic Experience in Belfast.
It was a well organized and self-guided tour as it retold the story of the Titanic.
Below is the slipway where the Titanic was first launched. A slipway is a sloped ramp leading into the water. It is used to get a ship in and out of the water.
RMS Titanic was built and launched from these historic slipways.
Our first gallery was “Boomtown Belfast”. We saw how the city was thriving and why the Titanic was built here. We didn’t take many pictures in the museum because we were taking in all of the interactive activities and reading the descriptions in each area.
We then visited “The Shipyard”. We saw Titanic’s blueprints and saw artifacts from there.
The Drawing Office was where the intricate details of ship design were transformed into reality.
“The Launch” was where Titanic was built. We saw a ticket of the official launch among other items.
“The Fit Out” was where we explored the ship from the boiler room to the staircase and up to the bridge on the 3D tour. It was really cool. We then walked to “The Maiden Voyage” where we followed Titanic’s route and also what life was like on board.
“The Sinking” was when Titanic hit the iceberg and we heard survivor stories and also saw the list of names of those who were lost and those who survived. We saw an original life jacket.
“Never Again” discussed the measures put into place to prevent this from happening again. We read and saw the inquiries that took place as to what happened on board.
“Ballard’s Quest” was about the period of years when Dr. Ballard searched to find the wreckage of the Titanic. “The Ship of Dreams” had the scaled model of the ship and more artifacts. The suspended model was located on the exact site where the RMS Titanic was built.
Scaled suspended model of the RMS Titanic
“The Lasting Legacy” explored how the Titanic impacted Belfast and future maritime safeguards. You can also pose as Jack and Rose from the movie Titanic. We didn’t plan on taking any photos but as we were walking by a couple asked us to take their pictures and then they said they would take a picture of us. How could we say no?
We walked across to tour the SS Nomadic. It was a tender ship of the RMS Titanic and the last vessel of the White Star Line in existence.
SS Nomadic
The ship was built by Harland & Wolff in Belfast. It is 230 feet long and 37 feet wide. It was specifically crafted to carry passengers and cargo between the shore and larger ships. It carried 142 first-class and 30 second-class passengers to the RMS Titanic at Cherbourg on April 10th, 1912. It was in service for 57 years. Besides carrying passengers and cargo to larger liners it also served as a tender carrying troops during both World Wars and was a minesweeper. Its last 30 years was spent as a floating restaurant and party venue in Paris. Then she went into disrepair and was returned to Belfast for scrapping in 2006. Instead of being scrapped she was fully restored!
The bar in the SS Nomadic and the original clock is set to the time the SS Nomadic last saw the Titanic.Captain’s CabinDave at the helm of the SS Nomadic
After our time at the Titanic Experience we checked into our hotel and our group met up at the hotel’s bar on the 23rd floor. Today was one of our couple’s anniversary so we toasted them with a drink. The views below are from the bar looking out at the capital city of Belfast.
Tomorrow we are heading to Derry with stops along the way.
Our day started meeting our guide for a tour of Trinity College. She was a student who had finished her studies and was getting ready to graduate. We met her in front of Library Square. She was full of energy and information.
Trinity College is the home to the Book of Kells and the Old Library (Long Room). It was founded in 1592 by royal charter from Queen Elizabeth 1. It is the oldest Ireland university with continuous operation. Some of its famous alumni are Oscar Wilde, Jonathan Swift, and Samuel Beckett.
At the juction of Library Square and Parliament Square was a monument to William Edward Hartpole Lecky. It was erected in 1906 and the bronze cast was by Sir William Gascombe. Lecky was a prominent English language historian of his time.
William Edward Hartpole Lecky Monument
Near Lecky’s monument is the college’s Campanile (bell tower). It stands 100 feet and is located in the center of the Parliament Square. It was constructed in 1853 and the corner statues represent Divinity, Science, Medicine, and Law.
Trinity College’s Campanile (Bell tower)
The Graduates Memorial Building
The Debating Chamber is located in this building. The Hist (College Historical Society) was founded in 1770 and The Phil (University Philosophical Society) was founded in 1683. The Phil meets weekly and values free speech. The Hist also meets weekly and debates political and controversial issues. It would have been quite an experience to attend one of the debates.
Below are pictures from the Trinity College Dublin Museum building. It is home to the Geology Discipline.
TCD Museum BuildingCeiling in the Museum BuildingEntrance staircase of the Museum BuildingEntryway of the Museum Building
College Park is a cricket field on the grounds of Trinity College.
Samuel Beckett theater on the Trinity College Campus
We visited the Book of Kells which was located in the Old Library. It is a 9th century gospel manuscript written in Latin at a Columban monastery in Scotland. It includes the four Gospels of the new testament. It began with an exhibition entitled “Turning Darkness into Light”. It explains the history and symbolism of the Book of Kells manuscript as well as how the vellum and pigments were made. It was a great introduction.
The pictures below were taken in the exhibition. No photos were allowed when we visited the Book of Kells which was open to pages from the Gospel of Luke. The pages are turned several times per year for conservation purposes.
After our visit to the Book of Kells we went upstairs to the Long Room. It housed over 200,000 of the library’s oldest books in oak bookcases. Due to the redevelopment project of the Old Library the books were removed, cleaned, tagged digitally and relocated to an off-site, climate controlled storage facility to stop the deterioration of the ancient paper and leather. Once the redevelopment project has been completed, the collections will be returned to the library shelves.
A gem in the Long Room was the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic which was read outside the General Post Office on April 24, 1916 by Patrick Pearse at the start of the Easter Rising.
Installed in the Old Library is an illuminated artwork called Gaia. It features NASA imagery of the Earth’s surface. It floats in 3 dimensions as it might be viewed from space.
After our tour of Trinity College we decided to get some lunch before heading for our Guinness Brewery tour. On the way we passed the Oscar Wilde Memorial Sculpture. It is a life-sized statue. He stood 6′ 3″ and was depicted at age 40. He was dressed in his famous smoking jacket and is carved from solid jade. His face is happy on the left side and sad on the right side. He is sitting on a 35 ton quartz boulder.
Oscar Wilde Memorial Sculpture
We checked in at the St. James Gate at Guinness to begin our tour! Guinness beer began in 1759 by Arthur Guinness. The Storehouse tour covers 7 floors and ends at the Gravity Bar.
Below are some of the views from the Gravity Bar looking out at Dublin.
The Gravity Bar gives 360˚ views of the city and the tour includes a pint of Guinness!
Arthur Guinness’ home
When we finished our Guinness tour we headed back to our hotel because we needed to get ready for our Celtic Nights Show & 3 course Traditional Irish Dinner at the Arlington Hotel.
The eleven of us getting ready for food and Irish entertainment!
A short example of one of the dance numbers with the band. The dancers and the band were very good.
After the show we walked back to our hotel.
Tomorrow morning we meet our driver/guide and say goodbye to Dublin!
