From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Day 9

This morning we sailed back down the Douro River along the High Douro Wine Region.

Sailing early this morning.

We arrived at the Pocinho Dam was just after we started sailing. In this lock we went down 72 feet!

The Valeira Dam and lock.

The Ama Douro continued toward the second lock, the Valeira Dam. At this lock we went down 110 feet. Below is a short video of the lock opening once the water level went down!

After we got out of the lock it was time for a Cooking Demo. The Pastry Chef Humrani gave us the recipe and demonstrated how to make Pastéis de Nata! It will be fun to try this with gluten free pastry!

vineyards along the High Douro Wine Region

As we were sitting in the restaurant we watch seaplane after seaplane dip into the river for water and then flying off to the wildfires!

We docked at Pinhão and had several hours to explore the small town. It was a major stop for cruise boats and was a gateway to port country.

Small town with a BIG sign!

One of Portugal’s rail routes passed through Pinhão on its way from Porto. Their train station was decorated with 21 azulejo (tiles) panels. They were blue and white scenes that depicted local life that included the grape harvest.

Pinhão Train Station and the Azulejo panels.

After our free time we had a visit to Quinta da Roêda that included a Port wine tasting. The winery was established in 1588 and was the oldest port company in operation. In 1736, the first Croft family member became a partner in the Port firm. In 1889, the Crofts acquired the famous estate of Quinta da Roêda. This estate remained the same source of wine for the firm’s vintage Ports to this day.

Quinta da Roêda

The Visitor’s Center was in the former stables of the estate. We had a guided tour. In about a month it would be harvest time for the port grapes. You could experience treading the grapes in the estate’s granite treading tanks in which the wine is made. Treading was also known as grape stomping! It was a traditional winemaking method where the grapes were crushed underfoot in large vats to release their juice and this began the fermentation process. It would have been a great experience if we had timed it during the harvesting! Even today the grapes were picked by hand.

A lot of grapes almost ready for harvesting!

Then it was time to taste the Croft Port wines. We tasted the Croft Pink Port and the Croft Reserve Port. If you like Port wine these were delicious.

Croft Pink Port and Croft Reserve Port

This evening we left the ship and experienced an authentic, homemade Portuguese dinner in Favaios. With 160 years of existence, Quinta da Avessada was situated on the vineyard plateau of Favaios. It was a historic village that was located in the Douro Valley. It was the primary producer of Muscatel wine. Muscatel wine was a fruity fortified wine made from Muscat grapes. It offered stunning views of the terraced vineyards and the Douro Valley.

As we climbed higher in altitude we could see the smoke from some of the wildfires.

The Quinta da Avessada was located at 1968 feet above sea level. The estate had 1000 hectares or a little over 2,471 acres of planted area. When we arrived we were given a glass of the Muscatel Wine.

Amazing views from the Quinta’s terrace.

On our way back to the Ama Douro, the sky was eerie due to the wildfires.

Other than the wildfires, it was a fantastic day in the High Douro Wine region!

From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Day 6

A rose was given to all the women on board last evening. A vase was placed in our room so we enjoyed the fragrant rose all week!

Early this morning we left our over night pier. Around 7:30 AM we arrived at our first lock. The sky was really hazy due to the wildfires.

This first lock was Crestuma Lever. It was built finished in 1985. We will go up 46 feet. The lock worked by raising and lowering boats in a device between stretches of water of different levels on the river. The locks made the river more easily navigable. First our ship approached the lock. The first door opens and we entered the lock compartment.

In the lock

The door closed behind the ship. The lock compartment was filled with water that raised the ship. Then the far door opened and the ship departed at the new higher level.

Smoke from the wildfires

Close to 10:30 AM we arrived at our second lock called the Carrapatelo Lock. It was the biggest on the river going up 115 feet!

Not long after going through the second lock we went under a very low bridge. We sat in chairs so we didn’t hit our heads!

In between the locks we sailed along the scenic Douro River. At first the sky was filled with wildfire smoke but then it cleared after we passed the area of the fires.

After lunch we arrived at the Lamego Pier. We then left the ship for a tour of the Mateus Palace and Gardens. On our way we passed some of the Sandeman wine vineyards. Their logo was well recognized. It featured a caped man and word a wide traditional Andalusian type hat.

Sandeman Vineyards
The far bridge was built as a railway but never used. Now it was used by pedestrians.

The Mateus Palace was a baroque style manor house. The house appeared on the labels of the Mateus Rosé wine. It was built in the early 18th century and finished by 1744.

Mateus Palace and the Mirror Pond

Our tour started in the first floor salon which had a magnificent wooden ceiling that featured family coat of arms.

The salon and its wooden ceiling.

Looking through one of the first floor windows could see the courtyard.

Looking out to the courtyard.
The Chapel

The Mateus Palace was lived in by 12 successive generations of the same family until the Casa de Mateus Foundation set up in 1970.

The library was remodeled in the mid-20th century. It contained volumes that dated back to the 16th century.

After our tour of the house and chapel, we explored the beautiful gardens. The gardens that we saw today were laid out in the 1930s and 1940s.

There was a vast cedar tunnel that was formed from cedars planted in 1941. It was 115 long and 25 feet high.

When we got back to the riverboat we set sail to Peso da Régua Pier.

Sailing to Régua.

We enjoyed trying the wines under the guidance of Gabriel, the sommelier.

After dinner we were treated to a Portuguese Folk Show. It was an authentic and entertaining show.

Portuguese Folk Show

After the show we walked on deck and saw the lights around town. There was a festival of some kind happening in town. We thought about walking into town but we were too tired.

The temperature today was 98˚ F and that didn’t include the “real feel”! The heat wore us out! Off to bed we went!