Italy- Vino, Views & Vacation Vibes: Day 12

Today was our last full day in Verona, Italy. The summer Opera series ended in the Arena last night. We decided today would be a good day to tour it. It was our morning adventure.

Outside the Verona Arena

The arena was originally used for the bloody gladiator fights. It had a capacity of nearly 30,000 people. When it was built it was located outside of town. Later when the walls were rebuilt it was inside the city limits. The Arena was built using the limestone from the mountains just north of the city. This stone was considered very easy to extract, was compact, and resistant to weathering.

Verona Arena stone

It was the 3rd largest Roman amphitheater surviving in Europe and one of the best-preserved in the world. The Arena consisted of 44 steps and rows. It was divided into sections to help with the entry and exit of spectators. It also divided them by social classes!

In 1117 a strong earthquake destroyed the Arena’s outer wall except for a section of four arches called the Arena Wing.

It was in disrepair until it was restored in 1500 and that restoration was important for the Arena still being used today.

In 1913 the first opera performance was held in the Arena. Verdi’s Aida was chosen and it was such a success that it became an annual event. A stage was erected on one side and the audience sat in a semicircle. With this set up only about 15,000 to 17,000 people could attend.

Inside the Arena looking at the Opera stage.

The pictures below demonstrated how difficult it was to “strike” the set after the Opera ended. A crane was needed to carry the cases of light and sound equipment so they could be loaded onto semi trucks.

After touring the Arena we walked around the area and then found a restaurant with gluten free options. We ate outside along the Piazza Bra at the Ristorante Pizzeria La Costa in Bra. Our meals were delicious!

Everyone was aware of the tragedy of Romeo and Juliet but after lunch we walked to a lesser known legend in Verona, “the Well of Love”. It was said that under the rule of Emperor Maximilian (1509-1517) and Verona was under the Holy Roman Empire that a young soldier, Corrado di San Bonifazio fell in love with a young woman named Isabella. She rejected all of Corrado’s seduction attempts. She was indifferent to him. When the couple met in a courtyard with a well, Corrado was exasperated by her coldness. Isabella gave him a challenge and told him to jump in the well. According to legend he didn’t hesitate and threw himself into the well. Isabella couldn’t believe he did this and she realized she did indeed love him. She followed him into the well. From that day on the well was known as the “Well of Love”!

We continued to walk the streets of Verona.

Because we had a very late lunch, we opened one of the bottles of wine that we purchased on our wine excursion. We enjoyed it with some snacks as our dinner in the hotel lobby. Unfortunately, we didn’t have wine glasses and drank out of paper cups.

This evening we could see a total lunar eclipse. We walked out to Piazza Bra to watch the eclipse. By the time we walked far enough to see the moon, the moon was beginning to be visible.

Watching the eclipse was a great way to end our last evening in Verona.

Italy- Vino, Views & Vacation Vibes: Day 11

This morning our first stop was to visit Casa di Giuletta (Juliet’s house) and the famous balcony. We knew it would get very crowded so we wanted to go early and it was located near our hotel.

Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet was written about fictional characters but the legend lives on here. Legend stated that this was the birthplace of Giulietta Capuleti. It was a very popular place to visit.

In the same courtyard as the balcony was a bronze statue of Juliet by Nereo Costantini. Many visitors take their picture with their hand on her breast for good luck in love.

Juliet’s Statue

Many visitors left love notes and messages on the “Love Letters Wall” or special mailbox. A team of volunteers called the “Secretaries of Juliet” read and respond to letters every year.

Near Juliet’s home was the Piazza Delle Erbe which was the oldest square in the city. In the center of the square was the Fountain of Madonna Verona. It was a historic landmark commissioned in 1368 by Cansignorio della Scala. It had ancient and medieval representations. The large basin and statue body were Roman and the head and arms were added during the medieval period. The scroll being held translated to “Verona is a city that provides justice and loves to be praised.”

Fountain of Madonna Verona

Also located in the piazza was the statue of Berto Barbarani (1875-1945). He as a Veronese poet. He’s looking towards the fountain of Madonna Verona. There was a small gold bird by his foot and the locals touch the bird for good luck. His right hand was holding the side of his coat and his left hand was behind his back holding a cane.

Statue of Berto Barbarani

The statue Civiltà Italica was erected in 1920 as a memorial to those who died on November 14th, 1915 when an Austrian bomb fell in Piazza Erbe during WWI. The statue was made of bronze by Egidio Girelli from Verona. It was a female attired in ancient dress with a sword in her hand.

Statue Civiltà Italica

Also found in the square was a small ancient podium known as the Capitello. It was used as a public shaming device or pillory. It dated from 1401 and was originally used as a podium to swear in magistrates.

The Capitello

The Colonna Viscontea, the Visconti Column occupied the place of the ancient Berlina which was used throughout the Venetian era for the public humiliation of condemned prisoners. It had a red marble base with a spiral at the corners and a pyramid shape at the top.

Colonna Viscontea or the Visconti Column

At one of the Piazza Erbe was the Maffei Palace. It was a historical palace that was built in the 15th century. The top floor had a balustrade with six statues of divinities: Hercules, Jupiter, Venus, Mercury, Apollo and Minerva.

In front of the Maffei Palace was St. Mark’s Column. It was made of white Veronese marble and erected by the city in 1523. The winged lion was placed on top of the column in 1524 and was sculpted by Pyrgoteles.

Maffei Palace and St. Mark’s Column

Located between Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza dei Signori was an arch with a walkway above. The walkway was used by the magistrates to go from their residence to the court without walking on city streets and avoiding any “common or corrupt” people! The arch was called the Arco della Costa or Arch of the Rib. The name Arch of the Rib was named because of the rib bone of a whale that hung in the center of the arch. It was believed that it had been there since the 1700s and possibly longer! Various theories exist as to why it was placed there.

Arco della Costa or Arch of the Rib– the whale rib is partially hidden behind the street light

We walked along the Adige River which flows through Verona. It was the second longest river in Italy.

At the top of San Pietro hill in the picture below was Castel San Pietro, a fortress built in 1398 on the ruins of a fortress from between the 9th and 10th centuries. It stood for 400 years before it was destroyed by French soldiers in 1801. The fortress we saw was built in 1851.

Castel San Pietro on top of the hill

The Pietra Bridge was a Roman stone bridge that was constructed in the first century B.C.! It was a combination of two materials: the original Roman white stone and the bricks that replaced the damages from floods and war.

Castel Vecchio and Scaliger Bridge

This fortified bridge also went over the Adige River and connected the late medieval castle. It was built between 1354 and 1356 and remained intact for at least five centuries. It was totally destroyed by the Germans retreating in 1945. It was reconstructed between 1949 and 1951.

The Verona Cathedral was built in 1187 in a Romanesque style. It was restored and enlarged in 1440. Inside there was a nave and two aisles with gothic columns in dark red Veronese marble with frescoes.

Next to the Duomo was the Biblioteca Capitolare. It was founded in the 5th century and it was the oldest library in the world of those still in existence!

Biblioteca Capitolare

Castelvecchio was built in 1355 as a home and a defensive fortification. At one point it was used as barracks and since 1928 a museum.

Arco dei Gavi (Gavi’s Arch) was an ancient structure located just outside the Roman walls of the city.

The ancient Roman gate, Porta Borsari, was the main entrance to the city of Verona. It was built toward the end of the 1st century BC.

As we walked along the left bank of the Adige River we saw a park with a statue of the Italian painter Paolo Caliari or as he was known as, Paolo Veronese. Paolo was born in Verona but became more famous for his work in Venice. The statue of him was erected in 1888 and sculpted by Torquato Dalla Torre.

Statue of Paolo Veronese

The images below were more sights of our walk around Verona. We saw so much as we walked around the city!

After a late lunch we had a wine tasting excursion. There were 8 of us with our driver/guide and we would visit two different wineries. Our first stop was the Damoli Winery. The winery looked down on the town of Negrar about 9 miles from Verona.

Negrar, Italy

It was a small family run vineyard in the heart of Valpolicella Classica region north of Verona. Since they were a small winery they were known for the quality of their wines. It was established in 1623.

Lara, the daughter, gave us our tour and did the tasting with us.

Lara

All of their grapes were picked by hand. They had already started picking the grapes that were ready.

We sampled 4 different wines. Our first was a white wine and the other 3 were red. Our wine tasting was served with meat, cheeses, and breadsticks (They were even prepared for gluten free bread!) We enjoyed Lara’s great explanations about each wine before each tasting.

The next vineyard we visited was the Farina Winery. It had been producing wine for over 100 years and now the 4th generation of the Farina family runs the business. It also was located in the Valpolicella Classica region. In the 2000s they expanded and added new areas for bottling and wine cellaring.

Farina

Our guide gave us a tour of the winery. Farina also had begun to pick the grapes that were ready to begin the wine process.

We saw the oak barrels for wine and they also used concrete vats! This was the first time we have seen concrete vats used.

After our tour we tasted 5 different wines. First was Valpolicella and it was the youngest wine. Our second wine was Montecorna Valpolicella Ripasso. It was a Classico superior. The Amarone was the third wine and was a vintage 2022 with 15% alcohol content. The fourth wine was Montefante Amarone, 2017 with a 16% alcohol. Our last wine was a della Valpolicella which was a dessert wine.

After we returned from the winery we relaxed for a short time and then walked to dinner and found a restaurant along the Piazza Bra. It was a beautiful evening to eat outside.

Our restaurant

The moon was rising over the Verona Arena. It was the day before the full moon and lunar eclipse.

Across from the Verona Arena we saw an advertisement for the 2026 Winter Olympics that was projected on the Barbieri Palace. The closing ceremonies will be held in the Verona Arena!

Front of the Barbieri Palace

Italy- Vino, Views & Vacation Vibes: Day 10

This morning we checked out of our hotel in Milan and our next stop was Verona. There was a train strike today and we couldn’t get a ticket so we took a bus(Flixbus) from Milan to Verona. It took longer but at least we were able to find transportation!

On the Flixbus

When we arrived at the bus stop in Verona we walked with our luggage to Verona’s train station which wasn’t far away. Here we took a taxi to our hotel near the historic city center. Hotel Guilietta E Romeo was in a great location.

After checking in and leaving our luggage in our room, we went out for a walk to begin exploring Verona. Our hotel was a block away from the arena. The Verona Arena hosted the Opera festival every summer. People come from around the world to attend. We didn’t realize this was the last few days of the Opera season or we would have tried to get tickets.

Verona Opera Festival

We took a walk around the arena and saw the props, costumes, and staging. It was located outside the arena. I don’t know what they do if it rains!

The Verona Arena was built in the 1st century and was the best conserved Roman amphitheatre.

The arena is beside the Piazza Bra. It was the largest public square in Verona and one of the largest in Europe. It also was busy!

Equestrian statue of Vittorio Emanuele II

This bronze monument of Vittorio Emanuele II was created by Ambroggio Borghi and erected in 1883. He was the first king of united Italy. It was located in Giardino park beside Piazza Bra.

Monument of the Fallen for Freedom

The Monument of the Fallen for Freedom was a statue by Mario Salazzari and created in 1946. It commemorated the anniversary of the Liberation of Italy on April 25th.

Palazzo Barbieri was the current seat of the Verona City Council. Its construction began in 1836 and was completed in 1848.

It was such a beautiful evening after dinner that we took a walk around the Piazza Bra.

Tomorrow we were going to explore more of Verona!