From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Day 10

It was another gorgeous but very warm day sailing the Douro River. We departed Pinhão early and went through the Bagaúste Dam lock by 7:00 AM. The difference in the water level was 84 feet.

Sailing along the Douro River

By 8:15 AM we were docking at the Lamego Pier and headed out for our excursion. We did the Holy Staircase Hike (686 steps) and then Bôlas de Lamego tasting!

Lamego, an ancient city, was located near the south bank of the Douro River. It was a small town in the heart of wine country and known as a pilgrimage town.

Our first stop was the O Escadório, the Holy Staircase and at the top of the staircase was the Santuário Nossa Senhora dos Remédies or the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies. The construction of the staircase was started in 1777 but it wasn’t completed until the 20th century. We reached the church by climbing the 686 awe-inspiring double staircase with 9 terraces. The terraces were a great place to stop for pictures and for us to catch our breath!

The Holy Staircase and the beginning was blocked by the trees!
The first set of steps!
Looking back at Lamego after crossing a terrace.

The terraces were embellished with azulejos (tiles), panels, chapels, fountains, obelisks and statues. It was amazing. We were so glad we did this hike. Please make sure you go through the slideshow of the terrace pictures. They all were unique.

The last terrace was considered to be the grandest and was called “Patio dos Reis” or the Courtyard of the Kings. It had a fountain of the Giants a little over 72 feet tall. It consisted of a cup with 4 Atlanteans on dolphins supporting an obelisk over 49 feet tall! It was decorated with Marian symbols and finished with a star.

When we reached the top of the staircase was the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies built in 1761 over the site of a ruined 14th-century pilgrim’s chapel. For those who weren’t able to do the stairs, the church could be reached by a road that wound its way up the forested hillside.

In early September pilgrims arrive by the thousands for Lamego’s Romaria de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios (Pilgrimage of Our Lady of Remedies). Many of these pilgrims climb the steps on their knees! Can you imagine doing that for 686 steps?

Once we were back down the hill we visited Casa do Presunto for a snack of ham, cheese and Lamego sparkling wine.

After our wine tasting we had time to explore some more of Lamego.

Outside of Lamego we had lunch at Quinta dos Viscondes Várzea (Viscounts of Várzea Manor. Our hostess was Countess Maria Manuel Cyrne.

Countess Maria Manuel Cyrne
Her Card

When we arrived we were served some of her wine as well as Bôlas de Lamego. Dave was able to try it because it was a culinary tradition from Portugal’s Douro region and was flaky, golden pastry with a savory filling like ham, chicken, seafood, etc… This was not gluten free for Kay.

The Countess grew up on this estate but her family had to sell with the fall of Salazar’s dictatorship. Being a countess was not a job in a socialist state. She became a teacher for 20 years and her husband also was a teacher. Maria was also making her own clothes and scarves and long story short her clothing business took off and she made enough to purchase back her family estate. Also, at the age of 50, she became pregnant through a clinic in Spain and had twin boys! Her husband and sons also help run the estate. She runs the estate as a country home, hotel, restaurant, event space, and cooking school.

The Countess gave us a tour of her country manor. These were just a few pictures from her home.

The Quinta was surrounded by the gardens, vineyards, and outdoor living spaces.

We had a delicious local lunch with state wines that was served by the staff.

Lunch in the restaurant

We arrived back at the Ama Douro in the late afternoon and then started down the Douro River and we went through the Carrapatelo Dam and lock. This was our last lock and it was 115 feet difference!

Our Captain Pedro, the Hotel Manager Ruben, and Cruise Manager André had a Gala Cocktail in the lounge and we met the entire crew of Ama Douro. We also experienced a Gala Dinner in the Dining room.

After dinner we were treated to a Tuna Show. A tuna was a group of students in traditional dress who played traditional instruments and sang serenades. This tradition was started in Spain and Portugal in the 13th century as a means for the students to earn money or food.

The Tuna that performed was Portuguese University students that sang, played instruments and danced for us. These young men were studying nursing or physical therapy.

The Tuna

We’ve included two short samples of their performance.

It was a great way to end our day!

From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Day 9

This morning we sailed back down the Douro River along the High Douro Wine Region.

Sailing early this morning.

We arrived at the Pocinho Dam was just after we started sailing. In this lock we went down 72 feet!

The Valeira Dam and lock.

The Ama Douro continued toward the second lock, the Valeira Dam. At this lock we went down 110 feet. Below is a short video of the lock opening once the water level went down!

After we got out of the lock it was time for a Cooking Demo. The Pastry Chef Humrani gave us the recipe and demonstrated how to make Pastéis de Nata! It will be fun to try this with gluten free pastry!

vineyards along the High Douro Wine Region

As we were sitting in the restaurant we watch seaplane after seaplane dip into the river for water and then flying off to the wildfires!

We docked at Pinhão and had several hours to explore the small town. It was a major stop for cruise boats and was a gateway to port country.

Small town with a BIG sign!

One of Portugal’s rail routes passed through Pinhão on its way from Porto. Their train station was decorated with 21 azulejo (tiles) panels. They were blue and white scenes that depicted local life that included the grape harvest.

Pinhão Train Station and the Azulejo panels.

After our free time we had a visit to Quinta da Roêda that included a Port wine tasting. The winery was established in 1588 and was the oldest port company in operation. In 1736, the first Croft family member became a partner in the Port firm. In 1889, the Crofts acquired the famous estate of Quinta da Roêda. This estate remained the same source of wine for the firm’s vintage Ports to this day.

Quinta da Roêda

The Visitor’s Center was in the former stables of the estate. We had a guided tour. In about a month it would be harvest time for the port grapes. You could experience treading the grapes in the estate’s granite treading tanks in which the wine is made. Treading was also known as grape stomping! It was a traditional winemaking method where the grapes were crushed underfoot in large vats to release their juice and this began the fermentation process. It would have been a great experience if we had timed it during the harvesting! Even today the grapes were picked by hand.

A lot of grapes almost ready for harvesting!

Then it was time to taste the Croft Port wines. We tasted the Croft Pink Port and the Croft Reserve Port. If you like Port wine these were delicious.

Croft Pink Port and Croft Reserve Port

This evening we left the ship and experienced an authentic, homemade Portuguese dinner in Favaios. With 160 years of existence, Quinta da Avessada was situated on the vineyard plateau of Favaios. It was a historic village that was located in the Douro Valley. It was the primary producer of Muscatel wine. Muscatel wine was a fruity fortified wine made from Muscat grapes. It offered stunning views of the terraced vineyards and the Douro Valley.

As we climbed higher in altitude we could see the smoke from some of the wildfires.

The Quinta da Avessada was located at 1968 feet above sea level. The estate had 1000 hectares or a little over 2,471 acres of planted area. When we arrived we were given a glass of the Muscatel Wine.

Amazing views from the Quinta’s terrace.

On our way back to the Ama Douro, the sky was eerie due to the wildfires.

Other than the wildfires, it was a fantastic day in the High Douro Wine region!

From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Day 8

Our pier was very close to the border of Spain. Today’s tour is an all day trip to visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Salamanca, Spain. The city dated back to 220 BC and a Renaissance city.

Along the way we saw fields of sunflowers on both sides of the road.

Field of Sunflowers

We passed the town La Fregeneda, a municipality in the province of Salamanca, Spain. It was known for its location of being near the border of Spain and Portugal and also the Arribes del Duero National Park.

Salamanca was known for its historic university of about 30,000 students. It was founded in 1218. It was the oldest university in Spain and I read it was the fourth oldest university in the world! Salamanca was nicknamed “La Dorad” (the golden city) because of its sandstone buildings golden hue. The buildings were beautiful!

The Art Nouveau and Art Déco Museum had these beautiful stained glass windows. It was located at the entrance to Salamanca’s Old Town in what was once an old private mansion.

Art Nouveau and Art Déco Museum

We had some free time at the Salamanca Central Market before our walking tour. It was located in a protected architectural work that was more than a century old. It was the oldest market of supplies in the city. It had the best meats, fish, and vegetables.

Plaza Mayor was one of the most beautiful squares in Spain. It was the best example of Baroque architecture and constructed between 1729 and 1755. It was the meeting point for the people of Salamanca. The square had 88 arches and a number of carved medallion reliefs.

On the northern facade of the square was the City Hall had two stories of balconies and a Belfry that was added in the 19th century with three bells and a clock.

On the easter facade of the square was the Royal Pavilion. It had a large semicircular arch. Royal officials watched events on the plaza from the central balcony. Above the balcony was a medallion of Philip V, who was King of Spain in the 1700s.

Royal Pavilion in the Plaza Mayor

The Casa de las Conchas, was a 16th century Gothic palace that was now a public library. It was covered in more than 300 symbolic seashell motifs. The shells were a symbol of the order of Santiago.

Casa de las Conchas

The Major Schools building (University of Salamanca) with its detailed sandstone characters, shields, and symbols. It was said students and visitors strived to find the famous frog of the University of Salamanca that was hiding.

Chapel of the Higher Schools of the University of Salamanca

The ceilings within the Major Schools were quite unique.

Salamanca had 2 cathedrals that stood side-by-side! The old Cathedral was built in the 12th-13th century and was in the Romanesque style . The “New” cathedral was built in the 16th century and was in the Gothic style. The town needed a second cathedral partly because of the large number of students at the university!

Our guide pointed out to us on the facade of the north door on the New Cathedral an astronaut, a dragon eating ice cream, lynx, bull, stork, rabbit and a crayfish. These were added during a 1992 restoration. The astronaut was added by the stonemason Miguel Romero. He carved the astronaut to symbolize the 20th century and mankind’s achievements. He had permission to add these to the facade. We found the astronaut, the dragon eating ice cream and the lynx.

We went inside the “New” cathedral which was beautiful. Please click through the slideshow below to see the exquisite interior.

A local lunch was provided at the Alameda Palace hotel which was a five- star hotel. An interesting fact was in the woman’s restroom stalls you were surrounded my mirrors in every direction. It was a talking point by our guide and all of the women! The lunch served was a traditional Spanish meal. After lunch we were entertained with a Spanish Folk show!

After our lunch and entertainment we had free time to explore more of Salamanca.

As we walked around we saw the pilgrim shell which was a universal symbol of the Camino de Santiago. This shell and a yellow arrow were the two primary symbols that guided pilgrims along the Camino de Santiago. One of the ancient pilgrim routes that lead to the tomb of St. James in Santiago de Compostela went through Salamanca.

Pilgrim Shell

We returned to the Ama Douro around 6:00 PM. Tonight’s dinner was an amazing Portuguese dinner.

Our Portuguese Dinner Menu

This evening there was a Vintage Port Wine opening ceremony with our Cruise Manager André and our Sommelier, Gabriel in the lounge. We had never experienced this ancestral tradition of opening the bottle of vintage port wine with only fire and water. It was fascinating to watch.

After opening the bottle cleanly, we all had the opportunity to have a glass of the vintage port wine.

It was a lovely evening to sit on the sun deck and enjoy our wine.

From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Day 7

This morning we set sail along the UNESCO-listed High Douro Wine Region. Not long after sailing we came to the Bagaúste Dam. The difference in the water level was 84 feet.

Bagaúste Dam
The Bagaúste Dam lock is on the far right.
Bagaúste Lock

The weather was perfect for sitting on deck to view the beautiful High Douro Wine region. Many of the vineyards had signs with their name.

A couple of hours later we approached the Valeira Dam with a 109 feet change of water level. We had to wait for another riverboat to pass through before out turn. The river was narrow.

It really was beautiful sailing along the High Douro Wine region. It was endless vineyards and quintas (wine estates). In the early 16th century, Manuel I ordered the widening of fishing channels along the Douro river because there was a growing demand for port! The sailors requested barrel after barrel of the fortified wine to get them through the long sea voyages.

Before lunch our three guides “taught” a Portuguese language lesson! They covered basic words and phrases. It was a fun hour. Of course, ask us what we remembered.

This afternoon the Ama Douro stopped at the Pocinho dock to let us disembark for our afternoon tour. A town we passed on our way to the Castelo Rodrigo.

We went to the Castelo Rodrigo which sat on a hilltop. It was a small fortified medieval settlement with great views.

Castelo Rodrigo

The town had medieval charm with its winding cobblestone streets, old walls, and traditional houses.

Entrance to the Castelo Rodrigo

We saw the 16th century pillory in the main square where town gatherings and announcements took place. It stood on a five-step pedestal and topped with an octagonal enclosure with eight twisted colonnettes.

Pillory
The Town Hall

We walked around the town on the cobblestone streets. You had to be careful when walking up and down with the uneven stones.

Below was the Parish Church that was founded in the 13th century. It was restored in the 13th century. It had a wooden ceiling painted with scenes of Saints, 18th century blue and white tiles in the chancel and Hispanic-Arab tiles at the high altar.

We walked through the ruins of the castle.

The scenery was beautiful. Spain was in the distance.

We also had a tasting of local specialties: wines, cheese, almonds, olives and bread!

Tastings

When we returned to our ship it was at the Barca D’alva Pier.

The Ama Douro stayed overnight in Barca D’Alva. Tomorrow we had a visit in Spain!

From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Day 6

A rose was given to all the women on board last evening. A vase was placed in our room so we enjoyed the fragrant rose all week!

Early this morning we left our over night pier. Around 7:30 AM we arrived at our first lock. The sky was really hazy due to the wildfires.

This first lock was Crestuma Lever. It was built finished in 1985. We will go up 46 feet. The lock worked by raising and lowering boats in a device between stretches of water of different levels on the river. The locks made the river more easily navigable. First our ship approached the lock. The first door opens and we entered the lock compartment.

In the lock

The door closed behind the ship. The lock compartment was filled with water that raised the ship. Then the far door opened and the ship departed at the new higher level.

Smoke from the wildfires

Close to 10:30 AM we arrived at our second lock called the Carrapatelo Lock. It was the biggest on the river going up 115 feet!

Not long after going through the second lock we went under a very low bridge. We sat in chairs so we didn’t hit our heads!

In between the locks we sailed along the scenic Douro River. At first the sky was filled with wildfire smoke but then it cleared after we passed the area of the fires.

After lunch we arrived at the Lamego Pier. We then left the ship for a tour of the Mateus Palace and Gardens. On our way we passed some of the Sandeman wine vineyards. Their logo was well recognized. It featured a caped man and word a wide traditional Andalusian type hat.

Sandeman Vineyards
The far bridge was built as a railway but never used. Now it was used by pedestrians.

The Mateus Palace was a baroque style manor house. The house appeared on the labels of the Mateus Rosé wine. It was built in the early 18th century and finished by 1744.

Mateus Palace and the Mirror Pond

Our tour started in the first floor salon which had a magnificent wooden ceiling that featured family coat of arms.

The salon and its wooden ceiling.

Looking through one of the first floor windows could see the courtyard.

Looking out to the courtyard.
The Chapel

The Mateus Palace was lived in by 12 successive generations of the same family until the Casa de Mateus Foundation set up in 1970.

The library was remodeled in the mid-20th century. It contained volumes that dated back to the 16th century.

After our tour of the house and chapel, we explored the beautiful gardens. The gardens that we saw today were laid out in the 1930s and 1940s.

There was a vast cedar tunnel that was formed from cedars planted in 1941. It was 115 long and 25 feet high.

When we got back to the riverboat we set sail to Peso da Régua Pier.

Sailing to Régua.

We enjoyed trying the wines under the guidance of Gabriel, the sommelier.

After dinner we were treated to a Portuguese Folk Show. It was an authentic and entertaining show.

Portuguese Folk Show

After the show we walked on deck and saw the lights around town. There was a festival of some kind happening in town. We thought about walking into town but we were too tired.

The temperature today was 98˚ F and that didn’t include the “real feel”! The heat wore us out! Off to bed we went!

From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Day 5

This morning we checked out of our hotel to head toward Porto where we would board our riverboat for our Douro River cruise. We certainly enjoyed our time in Lisbon!

On our way out of town we saw the Memorial to Senhor do Adeus (translated in English as the Lord of Goodbye).

Senhor do Adeus Memorial

João Manuel Serra for over 30 years greeted everyone in this area by waving to them. His goal was to “scare away loneliness”. His death moved thousands of people who saw him waving. The people in the area convinced the officials to erect this memorial in his memory.

As we continued onward we made a stop in Tomar, Portugal. It was located by the River Nabão. It was founded in 1157 by Gualdim Pais, the first Grand Master of the Order of the Templars in Portugal.

Roundabout entering into Tomar

During the 13th century Tomar was a powerful town because it was the seat of the Knights Templar. The Knights Templar was a Catholic military order founded in 1119. Their headquarters stayed in Tomar until they were extinguished by Pope Clement V in 1314. We toured the Convento de Cristo (Convent of Christ). It was an UNESCO World Heritage site. It was a 12th century religious complex built by the Knights Templar.

The Convent was surrounded by the walls of the Castle of Tomar. It was built over 5 centuries with combined architectural elements of Romanesque, Gothic, Manueline, Renaissance, Mannerist and Baroque.

The Convent had 8 cloisters built between the 15th and 16th centuries. We saw the Cemetery Cloister. It was where the monks and knights were buried.

The Washing Cloister was used to wash the monks’ clothes.

The Washing Cloister
The Washing Cloister

The Great Cloister, also known as the Cloister of John III was a two-story cloister that connected the dormitory of the monks to the church.

A highlight was the church. The Charola or rotunda was built in the 12th century by the Knights Templar within the convent. It was a private oratory for the Knights. It was inspired by the Holy Sepulchre Rotunda in Jerusalem. It was filled with sculptures, wood carvings, painted leather, murals and plasterwork. The Gothic nave was added to the round church of the Convent. It was built in the shape of a 16-sided drum. It was beautiful.

The Chapter House Window facade was divided by two string courses of sculpted knotted ropes which were a symbol of Portugal. Many of the Manueline motifs could be seen. For example we saw symbols of the Order of Christ and Manuel I, elaborate ropes, coral, and plant motifs.

Chapter House Window

We walked through where the dining room where meals were eaten.

Dining Room

We also visited the Convent kitchen areas.

Below was a collection of some additional photos from our visit to the Convent of Christ. It was such a fascinating tour.

In 1160 the building of the Castillo de Tomar or Tomar Castle began. It had an outer defensive wall. We walked through the ruins of the former royal quarters. The towers that surrounded the exterior were considered a great innovation at the time and were introduced to Portugal by the Knights Templar.

The Aqueduct of the Convent of Christ was built in the late 16th century. It was designed to supply water to the Convent.

After our visit to the Convent of Christ we had time to explore the town of Tomar and have lunch. We found a historic cafe that was established in 1911 and located in the center of town. It was a favorite of locals, artists and writers. We enjoyed our meal!

Our meeting place was beside Mouchão Park. This garden was located on a small island in the Nabão River. We took a short stroll through the walking paths.

The Mouchão Water wheel was built from pine and oak wood and had been part of Tomar’s landscape since the 16th century. Its historic mechanism was first used as a way to irrigate lands and then used as an energy source to power mills.

Our next stop was Porto where we would board our riverboat for a seven day cruise on the Douro River. Porto was Portugal’s second city. It was a major commercial center. By the time we arrived at our boat we didn’t have time to explore the city but we would at the end of our cruise.

We unpacked and then explored the riverboat before meeting in the lounge for our “Welcome Cocktail” and of course the required safety briefing.

Each night before dinner the cruise sommelier, Gabriel, discussed the white and red wine selection that would be served at dinner. He explained where in Portugal the wine was from, what grapes were used and the flavorings. We enjoyed his explanations. The wines we tried were delicious.

Gabriel, the sommelier

Our dinner menu and wine recommendations. The food and wine was delicious.

Amawaterways had their own postcards that you could send free of cost to family and friends. They had six different options. We thought this was a great idea to offer guests and free advertising for them! Below were 2 examples of the postcards available to send.

From 9-10 PM Captain Pedro took us on an Illumination Cruise. We were on deck for the cruise from Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia.

It was a warm but beautiful evening for cruising on the Douro River.

Tomorrow we will visit the Mateus Palace and Gardens in the civil parish of Mateus.

From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Day 4

This morning we ventured outside of Lisbon to the lovely mountain village of Sintra.

On our way we could see part of the Águas Livres Aqueduct. Its name translated to “Aqueduct of the Free Waters”. It was an example of 18th century Portuguese engineering. It was constructed because water was in scarce supply for Lisbon due to the growth outside its walls. Construction started in 1731.

Águas Livres Aqueduct

We were to visit the Pena Palace which sat on a steep hill. Well, the visit to the palace that we were looking forward to didn’t happen because the Portugal government closed it from July 27th to the 29th. This was due to a very high rural fire danger. The palace closure was part of a broader restriction of access to the Sintra Hills monuments. We will just need to visit Portugal again! Since we couldn’t see the Pena Palace, our guide made the best of it and we visited the National Palace of Sintra instead.

National Palace of Sintra

When approaching Sintra and the palace the first thing you noticed was the two champagne-bottled shaped chimneys. These were the smokestacks for the kitchen. They stood 108 feet. When we visited the kitchen in the palace we then understood why these were built.

National Palace of Sintra with the chimneys

Portugal’s first king, Afonso I Henriques moved into the palace after he conquered Lisbon in 1147. Additional additions over the following centuries created an architectural variety of styles from the Moorish to Manueline and Gothic to Renaisance.

Some of the highlights of our visit was the Magpie room (Sala das Pegas). It had many black and white birds painted on the ceiling. This was ordered by King João I (1385-1483). It represented all of the gossiping by the ladies at court after the king’s wife found him kissing one of them!

The Swan room or Great room (Sala dos Cisnes) was where João held his regal receptions. It was decorated in honor of his brother-in-law King Henry IV of England.

The grandest room was the Sala dos Brasões. It had a dome bearing the coats of arms of 72 noble familes. King Manuel I put his coat of arms in the center and at the top of the hierarchy. The coats of arms convey the identities of the individuals and demonstrated a clear form of social distinction.

Below was the Palace Guard room. It was where the ceremonial guards stood holding halberds because this was the access way to the palace.

Palace Guard Room

The Galley room was built on the orders of King João III (1502-1557). This room connected his chambers to the northwest wing of the palace. It might have been a gallery but no one knew for sure. The ceiling showed Portuguese, Imperial Ottoman and Dutch galleys from the 17th century.

Galley Room

The kitchen was a large historic space built in the 15th century. It served the entire palace and its large court.

The Royal Chapel or also known as the Palatine Chapel was originally built in the 13th century. It was enlarged in the 15th century and remodeled in the 18th and 19th centuries. The chapel served as a place of worship for the royal family and court. The ceiling was one of the oldest examples of “tracery” motifs, a complex radial and star-shaped geometric patterns.

The Anteroom of the Council Chamber which was also known as the Arab Room. It its center was a white marble basin within a square and this fountain dated back to the early 16th century. Later a group of sculptures of water-spouting mythical creatures were added.

Fountain and Basin in the Anteroom of the Council Chamber

We’ve included a slide show of additional areas of the castle.

From the castle we had some great views of Sintra.

Across from the castle and atop the hill we could see the ruins of the Moorish Castle which was surrounded by dense forest. Its fortification was founded in the 10th century when the Moors occupied the Iberian Peninsula. The wall’s blocks were made from granite.

We enjoyed some free time to wander around Sintra. We heard about a place to try ginga (also spelled ginjinha). Ginga was a Portugal liqueur specialty made from aguardente (brandy) that was infused with ginga berries (sour cherries), sugar and cinnamon. It was a sweet, dark red drink with 18-24% alcohol by volume. The place we went in served the ginga in small edible chocolate cups! It was good but one was enough for us. We were too busy enjoying the ginja to take a picture! 🙂

Cafe Paris opened in Sintra in 1945. We sat outside and the huge gluten free macaron with a raspberry filling was delicious. The others had custard tarts. We couldn’t believe the size of the macaron.

Câmera Municipal de Sintra was Sintra’s city hall in the center of the historic area. It was completed in 1910. It followed the Manueline style of architecture which included false battlements and beautiful arched Neo-Manueline styled windows.

Sintra’s City Hall

Our next stop was the seaside town of Cascais. It was one of Lisbon’s wealthiest suburbs. It was the summer retreat of the Portuguese nobility. Its beaches were popular. We noticed a lot of vacationers staying here and enjoying the beaches. It was situated on the Portuguese Riviera.

The home below was the home of Umberto II of Italy, the last king of Italy. He was exiled to Cascais after the Italian monarchy was abolished in 1946. Certainly not a bad residence for an exiled person.

Umberto II was exiled here

One could ride the carousel with horses, chickens, baskets and a chariot as its seats!

Carousel in Cascais

We found a lunch spot where we could enjoy our meal with a wonderful view. It was very warm but we had an umbrella for shade and a slight breeze from the Atlantic ocean.

Our lunch spot with a view.

We rode through Estoril. It was considered the home of spies. Ian Fleming, the most famous secret agent wrote his first James Bond novel, Casino Royale, based on his visit to the Estoril Casino. This casino was the largest in Europe and was known to be a convergence point for spies and exiled European royalty during WWII. Much of the movie was filmed in Estoril!

Casino Esteril

The Hotel Inglaterra was originally built in the early 20th century. Spies and exiled European royalty were known to stay here because Portugal was neutral during the war. It was a hub for espionage and during WWII spies from both the Allied and Axis powers were here.

We returned to Lisbon late in the afternoon. We then went to the Glória Funicular. It opened in 1885 and was electrified in 1915. This funicular railway connected the Pombaline downtown with the Bairro Alto. The Glória Funicular served over 3 million passengers up and down one of Lisbon’s steepest hills every year!

Glória Funicular

Next to the funicular was the São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint. Beautiful vistas could be seen from here.

Our Hop On Hop Off ticket included a night tour through Lisbon. Even though we were tired we didn’t want to miss this opportunity. It was well worth seeing the city sights and sounds after dark!

It was another full day exploring more of Lisbon and its surrounding areas.

From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Day 3

Portugal was known for its hand painted tiles called azulejos. Tiles were an important part of Portugal’s colorful and ancient history and culture. We saw these ceramic pieces on buildings and roadways everywhere. Even though tiles began in Egypt, Portugal was influenced by the Arab invasion in the 13th century and tiles were introduced and flourished by the 15th century. They were part of their artistic heritage and became integral to the architectural landscape.

Today was a “City of Seven Hills” tour. Our guide was Tiago. He would be with us the next few days. Our first stop was the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery) located on the banks of the Tagus River.

Jerónimos Monastery

This monastery was classified by UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) as a World Heritage site. It dated back to the 1500s. It was such an impressive building with its Manueline architectural style named after King Manuel I who ordered the monastery built. It’s limestone facades were rich with lavish architectural ornamentation. The Manueline style was prominent during the Portuguese Renaissance and Age of Discoveries. It incorporated maritime elements and representations of the discoveries of Vasco Da Gama and Pedro Alveres Cabral.

The detailed entrance was a visual masterpiece carved with saintly figures and characteristics of the Manueline style.

The Refectory had a low vaulted ceiling lined with azulejo tiles along the walls.

The cloisters was another highlight of the monastery. The cloisters were built to offer a tranquil space for meditating monks. The stonework was incredibly ornate.

It was a good thing we visited first thing in the morning because after our tour the lines outside were ridiculously long!

Long lines to visit the monastery

After our visit to the monastery our guides had a treat for us. They purchased the Pasteis de Belém, an authentic Portuguese custard tart. Those who had one said it was delicious. (Being gluten free, a different dessert was purchased from the bakery).

The bakery began making the original Pastéis de Belém in 1837. They still use the ancient recipe from the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. Only the custard tarts baked at their Antiga Confeitaria de Belém have the name Pasteis de Belém any others that you eat in Portugal are called Pastel de Nata. These custard tarts were the most popular sweet treat in Portugal.

We passed the Ponte 25 de Abril which was a suspension bridge in Lisbon. It was ofter called the “Golden Gate of Lisbon” because of its resemblance to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, California. Both had the international orange color. This bridge opened in 1966, thirty years after the Golden Gate Bridge. It was originally called the Salazar Bridge after Portugal’s prime minister and dictator at the time. When his government was overthrown in 1974 its name was changed to the date of the new independence, April 15th!

Ponte 25 de Abril

In front of the Monument to the Discoveries was a world map on the pavement. It showed the routes of Portuguese explorers during the Age of Discoveries. The map was a gift from South Aftrica in 1960.

Along the riverbank of the Tagus River was the Monument to the Discoveries. It stood 170 feet tall and commemorated the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator who discovered the Azores, Madeira, and Cape Verde. The monument was inaugurated in 1960. It represented a caravel, a small sailing ship, and leading was Henry the Navigator.

Belém Tower was a UNESCO World Heritage site. The outside of the tower was decorated in the Manueline style although it was difficult to tell because of its renovation to preserve its stonework and structure it was covered. It was originally built in the 16th century and was a coastal defense system to guard the mouth of the Tagus River and Lisbon. It also marked the spot where explorers started and ended their journeys.

Belém Tower along the Tagus River

The statue of Christ called Cristo Rei, opened its arms to Lisbon. It was inspired by the statue of Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro. The Catholic church in Portugal decided to have its own monument to Christ in Lisbon. The statue was unveiled in 1959.

We saw a Bordalo II, who was a famous street artist. He created art using garbage and his structures could be found throughout Lisbon, Portugal, and even internationally.

Bordalo II -Street artist work

After our morning tour we caught the “Hop On Hop Off” bus to see more of Lisbon on our own because we had the rest of the afternoon on our own. One of our stops was the Castle São Jorge located on the highest hill in Lisbon.

Castle São Jorge

Here we saw the archeological site that was still being unearthed, the 11 castle towers, fantastic views overlooking the city of Lisbon and much more. This fortress was built by Visigoths (a Germanic people) during the 5th century. The Moors (Muslim inhabitants) enlarged it in the 9th century. The castle was modified during Alfonso I of Portugal (1109-1185). He transformed it into a Royal Palace. In 1938 the castle was completely restored. It was in its glory from the 13th century to the 16th century. We saw the remains of the former royal palace, the beautiful gardens and part of the citadel from the 11th century.

As we walked through the beautiful castle gardens we saw peacocks, males, females, and babies.

There were beautiful views of Lisbon from the castle walls.

Rossio Square was a popular place for locals and tourists. It was characterized by its unique wavy cobblestone pattern! It gave the illusion of moving!

Rossio Square
In Rossio Square stood the column of Pedro IV who was known as the “soldier king”
Rossio Square- The Rossio Railway Station

We passed the Marques de Pombal Square several times because it was an important roundabout that many of the popular streets lead from it. In the center of the square was a column dedicated to the Marques de Pombal with a bronze statue of him on the top with a lion by his side that was a symbol of power. Lisbon was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake under the Marques’ direction.

At one of the entrances to the Jardim da Estrela, a beautiful park was a monument to Padro Alvares Cabral. He was a Portuguese explorer who was credited with discovering Brazil.

Padro Avares Cabral Monument (Rodolfo Bernardelli, 1940)

The Monumento aos Mortos do Grande Guerra translated to the Monument to the Fallen of the Great War. This monument was unveiled in 1931 and was dedicated to the soldiers of the Portuguese Army that died during WWI.

The monument to the fallen Portuguese Army soldiers in WWI

As we walked around Lisbon we saw tiles, azulejos, on buildings. Below are a few examples.

Trams were iconic in Lisbon. The yellow trams have helped locals and tourists navigate the many hills since 1873 and they became electric in 1901.

Lisbon’s yellow trams

In the evening we walked to SEEN, a rooftop bar that was recommended to us by our hotel lounge waitress. It was definitely the hotspot! You came here if you wanted to be seen! We visited because we wanted the views.

It was a very busy day! We saw so much more than we included in this post!

From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Days 1 & 2

We left Columbus’ John Glenn airport around 4:30 PM on Air Canada and arrived in Toronto, Canada a little more than a hour later.

Our second flight with Air Canada departed around 11:30 PM EST and landed in Lisbon on Saturday around 11:00 AM their time. The flight was pretty smooth but sleep was very difficult for us on overnight flights.

The big jets have to land out on the tarmac because they are too big for the gates. So we walked down steps and rode a bus that wound around the airport. It was very full and warm! We then entered the airport and went up a flight of stairs or used an escalator and walked to the LONG line for customs. By the time we got our passport stamped and made our way to baggage claim (which also was a hike), our luggage was already on the carousel. We made our way through the long exit line and found our Amawaterways transfer person.

Kay sat up by the driver because she was the last to get in the van that would take us to the airport. The driver pointed out sites as he drove to our hotel, the Intercontinental Lisboa hotel.

We met Andre, our cruise manager, at the hotel and he gave us much needed water. We waited about an hour for our room to be ready. It was wonderful to take a shower and put on fresh clothes. Even though we were exhausted we went for a walk up the street from our hotel and saw the Central Lisbon prison. It was built in 1875 and closed as a prison in 2020. It had a capacity of 887 inmates per cell when it was opened but many times those 9 square meters cells held 2-3 inmates. The prison was in disrepair and also had problems with mistreatment by the guards.

Central Penitentiary, Lisbon
A side view of the prison.

In the middle of a block of buildings was a single pump gas station. One would pull over and a person from the mini gas station would pump your gas! It was an interesting sight to see!

A gas station in the middle of the block!

Lisbon was the capital city with a hilly terrain along the Tagus River. It was founded about 1200 BCE as a trading station and it makes it one of the oldest cities in Europe.

One example of the hilly streets in Lisbon.

When we arrived back at the hotel after our walk we stopped in the lounge for some wine and a small charcuterie board to share with Roseanna who also traveled with us on this adventure. After our “happy hour” we went to the welcome meeting with our cruise manager and other travelers.

We walked to a recommended restaurant that wasn’t far from the hotel. Of course we walked up and down hills to get there. La Trattoria, an authentic Italian restaurant. Our meals were delicious.

We walked back to our hotel and it wasn’t long before we crashed and got some much needed sleep. Tomorrow’s tour would begin at 8:45 AM.

Scotland & Northern England Highlights Day 11

Very early this morning we checked out of our hotel in Chester. Our hotel was the Mill Hotel & Spa which was once the Griffiths Corn Mill from 1830. It was located on the banks of the Shropshire Union Canal.

We said goodbye to Chester, England and our adventures were coming to an end.

We were headed to the Manchester Airport for the first of our two flights home. The airport was much bigger than we anticipated.

Manchester Airport entrance

Our flight from Manchester, England would take us to Atlanta, Georgia. Our plane took off without a hitch.

Manchester to Atlanta

The layover in Atlanta was long, even with going through Customs! Unfortunately we had a late flight into Columbus. Our luggage went on an earlier flight that we were hoping to get on but no such luck. When we arrived it was around midnight but we didn’t have to wait for our bags. They were sitting there waiting for us and we were thankful to get home!

Our trip was full of new experiences and some that were repeats. We enjoyed them all!

Our next adventure will take us to Portugal, a country we haven’t explored. Stay tuned….