Scotland & Northern England Highlights Day 9

This morning we checked out of our hotel in Edinburgh and we were heading to England. As we drove by Haddington, Scotland we saw such fertile land.

Fertile farmland south of Edinburgh

We passed by Eyemouth, Scotland. It was a fishing port along the North Sea and it was located about five miles from the English border.

The coastline of Eyemouth

By mid-morning we crossed the border from Scotland into England.

We had a quick stop at Berwick-upon-Tweed. It was the most northerly town in England and along the North Sea coast. The Royal Border Bridge was a railway line running between Edinburgh and London. The bridge was designed by Robert Stephenson and spanned the River Tweed. It had 28 semicircular arches and 13 of those arches spanned the river. The bridge used 8 million cubic feet of stone and 2 1/2 million bricks set in cement. It opened in 1850.

The Royal Border Bridge

During WWII, the Royal Border Bridge was a vital target for German bombers. It was never successfully hit and it operated throughout the war. In the 1990s the bridge underwent a restoration project.

The Berwick Lighthouse was red and white at the end of the pier guarding the entrance to the River Tweed. It was built in 19th century and completed in 1826.

Berwick Lighthouse

The lighthouse was very exposed with the North Sea gales. In 2020 it was repainted and repointed.

Down the coastline was Spittal Beach in the village of Spittal. It was a popular seaside resort due to its sandy beach.

Spittal got its name from a shortened form of “hospital”. That hospital was dedicated to St. Bartholomew and it was built here during the Middle Ages to care for lepers.

We passed by Holy Island also known as Lindisfarne was a tidal island known for its historical sites. The Lindisfarne Priory which was a former monastery and Lindisfarne Castle dated back to 1550. You could only reach the island by a causeway that only can be traversed following the tide schedule and the weather.

Holy Island

Bamburgh Castle looked over the Northumberland coastline and we stopped here for a visit and tour. The castle sat on a volcanic rocky plateau 150 feet above the coastline. Its remains dated back to the 12th century.

Bamburgh Castle
Map of Bamburgh Castle

The Bamburgh Castle was home to a succession of kings from Henry VI to James I. Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny beginning scenes were filmed outside of the castle. The castle doubled as a 1944 Nazi Germany location.

The Battery Terrace was located above the Battery Gate. It was designed to withstand attacks.

The Battery Terrace

In 1894 William George Armstrong bought the castle. He was an inventor, industrialist, philanthropist and he transformed it into an archetypal castle. He added a unique collection of artwork, ceramics, and objects of art. The Castle was still owned by the Armstrong family. There were 14 rooms opened to the public.

Inside the castle, Dave sat in the Wessox throne that was created in Season 3 of The Last Kingdom which was a TV series. Some of the series was filmed at Bamburgh.

The Keep was a large square structure and the oldest surviving part of the castle. The walls were 11 feet thick to the front and 9 feet wide elsewhere.

The Keep

The Courtroom was located within the Keep and originally was a Norman guardroom and now served as a portrait gallery.

The Corurtroom and our Castle guide.

At the base of the Keep was a Saxon well with a victorian cap.

Well located at the base of the Keep.

The murder hole located in the castle was used to discourage or kill invaders from entering the castle.

The Cross Hall, located at the top of the King’s Hall had a tudor style fireplace and vast trapestries and the focus of the room was a copy of “The Card Players” by Theodoor Rombouts It was painted in 1630.

The Cross Hall
The Card Players

The King’s Hall was built on the site of the medieval Great Hall. The false hammer beam ceiling was made from teak wood that came from Thailand. It was the castle’s main social reception and banqueting hall.

The King’s Hall

We visited the Victorian Stables. It was built by Lord Armstrong. Now it was home to the Victorian Stables Bar and included a dog-friendly area.

We also visited the Library, with literature from the mid 17th and mid 18th centuries and the Faire Chamber that housed a collection of ceramics from the 18th and the early 19th century. The Armory had a collection of weapons displayed.

Armory

Views from the castle to the surrounding area.

Looking out at the North Sea we could see the Farne Islands, a National Nature Preserve. We could see a few of the 15-20 islands. Lighthouses have been built on many of the islands due to the danger to ships. Below were a couple of the islands we could see that had lighthouses.

When we left Bamburgh Castle we headed to Durham. Durham was located in Northeast England and was a hilly city and the Durham Cathedral dominated the skyline. Its name was derived from “Dunholme” or hill island due to its location and a bend on the River Wear.

Crossing the River Wear

The Durham Cathedral and the Durham Castle became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1986. In 2008 the World Heritage site expanded its designation to include Durham University, Palace Green, University College, and Durham.

A few scenes from our walk in Durham.

The Durham Cathedral was founded in 995 AD by monks from Lindisfarne who were fleeing Viking raids. They brought their holy relics with them.

Durham Cathedral

The Sanctuary Knocker or Sanctuary Ring currently on the north entrance door was placed there in 1981. The original was in the Durham Cathedral Museum and was from the 1100s.

The Sanctuary ring was used by a person who committed a great offense. That person would rap the ring and monks would give the person 37 days of sanctuary. The 37 days would be used by the accused person would need to decide whether to face trial or exile. This right to sanctuary was abolished in 1624.

Built in 1686 was a beautiful oak wood organ case. It was built by Bernard Schmidt or Father Smith as he was called. It was no longer in use.

Father Smith’s Organ Case

The Cloister was a covered walkway with windows on one side that opened to a grassy area called the Cloister Garth. It was located south of the Nave and was built in the 12th century and remodeled in the early 15th century and this was what we saw today.

Part of the Cloister

If you were a Harry Potter fan then you’d be interested in the scenes filmed at the Cathedral. Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets and Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone movies filmed scenes in the Cloister.

The Cloister Garth was used in a wintery scene in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. It was whenHarry released his pet owl Hedwig. It was also used in Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets when Ron’s “eat slugs” curse backfires.

The Cloister Garth (green space)

In the Galilee Chapel was constructed in the 1100s when Durham Cathedral was a monestary. This was one of the few places a woman was allowed. Saint Bede the Venerable was known for his writing, scholarship, and historian. His most famous work was Ecclesiastical History of the English People. His resting place was here.

If you watched Avengers: Endgame movie the Galilee Chapel was one of the rooms in the Asgard Palace.

The Nave was the main room of the cathedral. Services were held here.

Durham Cathedral Nave

The Nave was also used in Avengers: Endgame movie. It was where Thor traveled back in time and visited Asgard.

A wider view of the Nave

The South Transept was by the entrance to the Cathedral Tower. It had a colorful medieval clock above a door that the choir used to enter.

South Transept

The clock was constructed by Prior Castell in the late 15th or early 16th century. In 1845 they removed the clock. The Victorians thought is was too frivolous. In 1938 the clock was reconstructed by the Friends of Durham Cathedral.

The Quire was the heart of the cathedral. Daily worship took place here.

The Quire

The Shrine of St. Cuthbert was up the stairs in the Chapel of Nine Altars. He was buried beneath a stone slab that bore his name. The Shrine was located behind The Quire.

Shrine of St. Cuthbert

The Chapel of the Nine Altars was located behind the Shrine of St. Cuthbert. Today there were three working altars dedicated to St. Margaret, St. Hild, and St. Aiden. It was built between 1242-1280 because they needed space for the number of pilgrims visiting St. Cuthbert’s Shrine.

The Pietà sculpture was in the Chapel of the Nine Altars. It was carved from a beech tree with brass details from 1974-1981 by sculptor Fenwick Lawson.

The Pietà Sculpture

We checked into our hotel and walked back into town to eat at the Fat Hippo. It was located in the historic center of Durham.

Fat Hippo Restaurant

The Fat Hippo was known for their burgers so we all tried one and it didn’t disappoint. The restaurant was in a grade II listed building. That meant the building had to be preserved and was recognized on England’s National Heritage List. We were seated on the second floor which had a little bit of a slope. The building was from the 17th century.

After a eating a delicious meal, we walked back to our hotel.