Sunday, August 3rd, 2025
It was another gorgeous but very warm day sailing the Douro River. We departed Pinhão early and went through the Bagaúste Dam lock by 7:00 AM. The difference in the water level was 84 feet.
By 8:15 AM we were docking at the Lamego Pier and headed out for our excursion. We did the Holy Staircase Hike (686 steps) and then Bôlas de Lamego tasting!
Lamego, an ancient city, was located near the south bank of the Douro River. It was a small town in the heart of wine country and known as a pilgrimage town.
Our first stop was the O Escadório, the Holy Staircase and at the top of the staircase was the Santuário Nossa Senhora dos Remédies or the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies. The construction of the staircase was started in 1777 but it wasn’t completed until the 20th century. We reached the church by climbing the 686 awe-inspiring double staircase with 9 terraces. The terraces were a great place to stop for pictures and for us to catch our breath!
The terraces were embellished with azulejos (tiles), panels, chapels, fountains, obelisks and statues. It was amazing. We were so glad we did this hike. Please make sure you go through the slideshow of the terrace pictures. They all were unique.
The last terrace was considered to be the grandest and was called “Patio dos Reis” or the Courtyard of the Kings. It had a fountain of the Giants a little over 72 feet tall. It consisted of a cup with 4 Atlanteans on dolphins supporting an obelisk over 49 feet tall! It was decorated with Marian symbols and finished with a star.
When we reached the top of the staircase was the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies built in 1761 over the site of a ruined 14th-century pilgrim’s chapel. For those who weren’t able to do the stairs, the church could be reached by a road that wound its way up the forested hillside.
In early September pilgrims arrive by the thousands for Lamego’s Romaria de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios (Pilgrimage of Our Lady of Remedies). Many of these pilgrims climb the steps on their knees! Can you imagine doing that for 686 steps?
Once we were back down the hill we visited Casa do Presunto for a snack of ham, cheese and Lamego sparkling wine.
After our wine tasting we had time to explore some more of Lamego.
Outside of Lamego we had lunch at Quinta dos Viscondes Várzea (Viscounts of Várzea Manor. Our hostess was Countess Maria Manuel Cyrne.
When we arrived we were served some of her wine as well as Bôlas de Lamego. Dave was able to try it because it was a culinary tradition from Portugal’s Douro region and was flaky, golden pastry with a savory filling like ham, chicken, seafood, etc… This was not gluten free for Kay.
The Countess grew up on this estate but her family had to sell with the fall of Salazar’s dictatorship. Being a countess was not a job in a socialist state. She became a teacher for 20 years and her husband also was a teacher. Maria was also making her own clothes and scarves and long story short her clothing business took off and she made enough to purchase back her family estate. Also, at the age of 50, she became pregnant through a clinic in Spain and had twin boys! Her husband and sons also help run the estate. She runs the estate as a country home, hotel, restaurant, event space, and cooking school.
The Countess gave us a tour of her country manor. These were just a few pictures from her home.
The Quinta was surrounded by the gardens, vineyards, and outdoor living spaces.
We had a delicious local lunch with state wines that was served by the staff.
We arrived back at the Ama Douro in the late afternoon and then started down the Douro River and we went through the Carrapatelo Dam and lock. This was our last lock and it was 115 feet difference!
Our Captain Pedro, the Hotel Manager Ruben, and Cruise Manager André had a Gala Cocktail in the lounge and we met the entire crew of Ama Douro. We also experienced a Gala Dinner in the Dining room.
After dinner we were treated to a Tuna Show. A tuna was a group of students in traditional dress who played traditional instruments and sang serenades. This tradition was started in Spain and Portugal in the 13th century as a means for the students to earn money or food.
The Tuna that performed was Portuguese University students that sang, played instruments and danced for us. These young men were studying nursing or physical therapy.
We’ve included two short samples of their performance.
It was a great way to end our day!
