Heart & Soul of Ireland- Day 13 & 14

Today is our last full day in Ireland. We leave Killarney this morning and head to Kilkenny with stops along the way. It was a gorgeous day!

Waiting on Martin and our van!

There was beautiful scenery as we drove East.

Our first stop was at Bailick Park in Midleton.

Here we visited the Kindred Spirits Monument. It is a tribute sculpture to the generosity of the Choctaw Nation and how they helped the Irish People during the Great Famine. In 1847, the worst year of the famine in Ireland, close to a million people were starving. The Choctaw Native Americans raised $170.00 of their own money which would equal thousands of dollars today in aid to supply food for the starving Irish.

The monument stands in the park as a tribute to the tribe’s charity during the famine. It represents a great moment of compassion, strength and unity. The artist was Alex Pentak and it was unveiled in 2015. The monument consists of nine 20-foot stainless steel feathers, shaped into an empty bow. Not two feathers are identical.

Kindred Spirits

We made a stop at the Jameson Irish Whiskey distillery in Midleton.

Since closing the distillery in Dublin, Ireland all of Jameson Irish Whiskey is produced in Midleton. It is a 15 acre site. We didn’t take a tour but we had time to look around the entrance and shop in the store!

We made a stop in Cork. It is the second largest city in Ireland. It is located at the head of Cork Harbour on the River Lee in southwest Ireland.

Rowers on the River Lee.

Cork’s city center is flat but as soon as you leave the central hub it is very hilly.

We visited the English Market that opened in 1788 and it is one of the oldest municipal markets around today.

English Market

In 1980 it had a fire and nothing was left except the exterior red brick walls and a decorated fountain.

Decorative Fountain in the English Market

This huge indoor market sells a large variety of fresh meats, fish, dairy, produce, flowers and more. Famous people have visited including the late Queen Elizabeth II!

Across from the Market was the Bishop Lucey Park or the “People’s Park”. The main gates at the park were moved from Cork’s corn market to this location.

Berwick Fountain was erected in 1860 by Walter Berwick who was well an important figure in the Cork judiciary system.

Berwick Fountain

The National Monument is located on the Grand Parade in Cork. It was built to honor the memory of the men and women who took part in the rebellions against the Crown in 1798, 1803, 1848, and 1867. It was unveiled in 1906.

The four statues on the monument portray Wolfe Tone who was the Leader of the 1798 Rebellion, Michael Dwyer who was part of the 1798 Rebellion, Thomas Davis who was part of the Young Ireland movement and Peter O’Neill Crowley who was part of the Fenian Rising. The fifth statue is the Maid of Erin.

On the rails around the monument are plaques. They are the Cork Coat of Arms, the Shield Hail Columbia with the Eagle & Flag of the USA, and the four provinces of Ireland; Munster, Leinster, Connaught, & Ulster.

Below is a picture of the historic Singer Sewing Center on what is called Singer’s Corner. It has been a fixture since the 1870s. It is a landmark spot with its distinctive gold and black facade.

Singer Sewing Center

The black and gold motif was used to reflect the design of the black wooden Singer sewing machines which are kept in the windows below. The Singer store has closed and another business will be going in the space.

The street lights along Grand Parade are architecturally distinct. They were designed by Spanish architect Beth Gali. She designed the lights to be reminiscent of ships’ masts and she wanted to incorporate Cork’s maritime and harbor history.

Michael Collins statue was unveiled in 2023 on Grand Parade. He was an important Irish Revolutionary leader. Kevin Holland was the sculptor.

Michael Collins Statue

This near life-size statue was on Grand Parade in Cork. He is with his bicycle because he cycled all around Dublin. This site was chosen because on March 12, 1922, the “Big Fella” which was his nickname attended a rally here. He delivered a passionate speech to a reported crowd of 50,000.

Martin and Dave with the “Big Fella”.

A march was happening along Grand Parade as we were walking along. It included flags and dress from many African countries.

After our time in Cork, we are on our way to Cashel.

The countryside as we head to Cashel.

When we arrived in Cashel we had lunch at a local family-run restaurant.

Some of us finished lunch quickly and walked up the path to enter the Rock of Cashel. The pathway was beautifully lined with trees and plants.

The Rock of Cashel sits on a limestone outcrop.

It is a group of medieval buildings that looms over the town of Cashel and the surrounding area.

Rock of Cashel

There is a cluster of medieval buildings (12th & 13th centuries) that includes a round tower, a high cross, a Romanesque chapel, a Gothic cathedral, an abbey, the Hall of the Vicars Choral and a 15th century Tower House.

When we finished at the Rock of Cashel we traveled on to Kilkenny. On the drive we saw the Clomantagh Castle. We could see its 15th century tower house.

Clomantagh Castle

The River Nore flows directly through the heart of Kilkenny. The river separates the medieval area from the newer developments.

River Nore

Kilkenny Castle was our next stop. It was built in the 12th century. The castle is famous for its 800-year history as a strategic Norman stronghold and the former seat of the powerful Butler family.

Kilkenny Castle

The castle sits on fifty acres of rolling parkland. It includes a formal terraced rose garden and a man-made lake that was added in the 19th century. It was a gorgeous day so many people were enjoying the parkland.

We did a self-guided tour of Kilkenny Castle. Check out the slideshow below to see a few photos from inside.

After our tour of the Kilkenny Castle we checked into our hotel. Martin stopped a man with his hurling equipment and he was gracious enough to explain in simple terms the essence of the game.

After dropping off our luggage we went out to explore the city and find a place for dinner.

The Kilkenny hurling statue is a 14-foot limestone and bronze monument at Canal Square that celebrates Ireland’s national sport. It was crafted by Barry Wrafter and was unveiled in 2016.

“Tribute to Hurling” Statue

Grace’s Old Castle is now the courthouse. The building became a courthouse in 1792 and much of the building has been replaced.

Grace’s Old Castle

Butter Slip was built in 1616 and was once flanked with the stalls of butter vendors on market day. It has an arched entry and stone steps that connects High Street with St. Kieran’s Street.

Butter Slip

Since it was a Saturday evening it wasn’t easy to find a restaurant with available seating. We found an Italian restaurant that was established in 1990. It is family run by the Cardillo family. Carlo Cardillo who originally came from Cervaro, Frosinone in southern Italy relocated to Ireland in 1974. We had a delicious meal.

Italian Connection Restaurant

Tonight we packed our things for traveling home tomorrow.

This morning we left our luggage in the hotel lobby and then went into the restaurant for breakfast.

Hotel lobby and restaurant

When we arrived at the Dublin Airport we said goodbye to our excellent driver/tour guide Martin! We took a group picture before saying goodbye. What a fabulous adventure we had in Ireland!

Our group of travelers with Martin!

Our first flight took us from Dublin, Ireland to New York. What was really nice is that we went through Customs in Ireland. Because we completed it in Ireland we didn’t have to recheck our luggage at JFK airport and go through security screening a second time.

We had a layover in New York before our flight to Columbus! We arrived home close to 12:30 AM. It was close to a 24 hour day! We didn’t mind because our trip was fantastic!

We can’t wait until our next adventure!

Heart & Soul of Ireland- Day 12

This morning we drove from Killarney to explore the Dingle Peninsula. Our first stop at the Aghadoe View which is famous for its sweeping panoramas of Lough Leone, the Lakes of Killarney, and the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks mountains.

Aghadoe View
The clouds did not cooperate with us this morning.

Near the Aghadoe View is the ruins of the Aghadoe Cathedral. It is from the 12th century and overlooks the Lakes of Killarney.

Aghadoe Cathedral ruins

We passed through Milltown on our way to Castlemaine.

Main Street in Milltown

Milltown is located near the Ring of Kerry and is situated on the Iveragh Peninsula. It is a small urban town.

The Castlemaine Harbour is located at the head of the Dingle Peninsula.

In 1990 Castlemaine Harbour became a protected nature reserve. In the town center was a statue of the legendary Jack Duggan. He was a fictitious bushranger from a folk ballad. Castlemaine claims it was his legendary birthplace.

The Wild Colonial Boy (Jack Duggan)

Inch Beach is located on the Dingle Peninsula. It is a little over three miles of sand and dunes. It is popular for swimming, surfing, and fishing.

Dingle Bay

Our next stop was the Annalack Viewpoint along the Dingle Bay Peninsula. This scenic outlook offers views of the surrounding rolling hills and lush greenery.

Slea Head Drive starts and ends in Dingle. Parts of this drive is narrow and one lane only in parts. One of the most iconic stops on Slea Head Drive is the White Cross that shows the crucifixion. It is located between the rugged cliffs and the Atlantic Ocean.

White Cross Crucification on Slea Head Dr.
Looking down the steep cliffs of Slea Head Dr.

From the “White Cross” we could see the Blasket Islands. They are a small archipelago of six islands and other smaller islands. These islands are Ireland’s and Europe’s most westerly point.

Blasket Islands in the distance

One of the Blasket Islands looks like a “Sleeping Giant” or “Sleeping Monk”. Does this island look like a giant that is sleeping to you?

Sleeping Giant
Blasket Islands

We made a stop at the Lios Stone Circle and Animal Feeding along the Slea Head Dr. The animals at the pet farm included sheep, lambs, goats, kids, horses, pigs, donkeys, and llamas. We walked around the grounds and fed the animals. We all enjoyed our time here.

This was another Discovery Point along the Wild Atlantic Way that looked out at Coumeenoole Bay.

Dingle Bay

Scenic countryside as we drove along the Dingle Peninsula.

We stopped in the town of Dingle. It is a port town that sits on the scenic Dingle Peninsula. We had time for lunch and some exploration of the city.

Dingle Marina

Dingle was busy with tourists and finding a place for lunch that had open tables wasn’t easy. We found the Dingle Marina Inn Bar and Restaurant. They didn’t have tables but we could sit at the bar and order food.

The Dingle Marina Inn Bar & Restaurant

The Fungie Statue was a bronze memorial to Dingle’s most famous resident, a wild dolphin. The dolphin interacted with locals and tourists from 1983-2000.

The Dingle Dolphin

At the Dingle Pier is a Rope Sculpture that was finished in 1995. It was two piles of bronze rope in a snake like fashion.

Rope Sculpture

This evening when we returned to Killarney we all went to dinner together at The Porterhouse Restaurant. We were celebrating one of our travelers, Donna’s birthday. It was an enjoyable dinner and celebration!

Tomorrow we will be leaving Killarney.

Heart & Soul of Ireland- Day 11

After breakfast at the hotel we went for a walk before our driver would be picking us up. We walked past the courthouse that serves the Circuit and District Courts.

In front of the Killarney Courthouse was a bronze monument by Don Cronin of life-sized red deer stags locked in confrontation. It was unveiled in 2012.

Red Deer of Ireland Monument

The weather was foggy and misty when we stopped and looked out at Derrycunihy. It is a nature reserve known for its geographic features in the Killarney National Park. It is located along the famous Ring of Kerry in southwestern Ireland. In the first picture it looks at the Killarney National Park and in the second picture it looks at the Looscaunagh Lough.

The weather didn’t cooperate at the Ladies View scenic viewpoint along the Ring of Kerry. The name stems from the admiration of the view given by Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting during their 1861 visit.

Ladies View

Our next stop was to view the Torc Waterfall. In Irish “Torc” means wild boar. It is also located in the Killarney National Park and is along the Ring of Kerry.

It is a five minute walk from the road through scenic woodland to reach the waterfall.

The walk up to the waterfall.

The waterfall is 66 feet high as it cascades over boulders and is 360 feet long. It is formed by the Owengarriff River as it drains from the “Devil’s Punchbowl” which is a glacial lake in the Mangerton Mountain.

Enjoying Torc Waterfall

We toured the Muckross House and Gardens. The house was constructed from 1839 to 1843.

The house and its surrounding lands were donated to the Irish state in 1932. Queen Victoria once visited Muchross House. Below are a few pictures from the grounds of the house, inside, and the servant’s kitchen area.

On the grounds of Muckross is a Craft Center. We stopped in after our visit to the house to see them throw pottery and weaving. Unfortunately they were finished for the day but you could still see the workshops.

We had a Jaunting Car ride today. I had to look up what it was ahead of our trip to Ireland. It is a 2-wheeled carriage for a single horse with a seat in front for the driver. It is a great way to explore Killarney National Park.

Our Jaunting Car and driver

We had an enjoyable ride through Killarney National Park.

Killarney National Park is home to the Muckross House and Gardens, the Lakes of Killarney, Inisfallen Island and more. It covers 26,000 acres and sits at the foot of the Macgillycuddy Reeks (Ireland’s highest mountain range).

Located by the park’s visitor center was a memorial to Monsignor Hugh O’Flaherty. He lived from 1898-1963 and grew up in Killarney. In Rome during WWII he organized an escape organization for Allied POW’s and civilians. He and his colleagues had saved over 6,000 lives when the Allies arrived in Rome.

The park includes mountains, lakes, islands and flatlands.

Red deer can be found here but we only saw Sika Deer. The Sika deer is also known as the Japanese deer and they were introduced from Japan in 1865. The herd has grown to over a thousand.

Sika Deer

As we rode through the park we could see Ross Castle which is also located in Killarney National Park.

Ross Castle

The National Park is home to the most extensive area of natural oak woodland still remaining in Europe. You can also find the Arbutus (Killarney Strawberry tree) in the park. UNESCO designated the National Park as a Biosphere Reserve in 1981.

Our Jaunting Car ride ended at Ross Castle. The castle was built in the 15th century and is located by the Lough Leane which is the largest of the lakes. It is surrounded by a defensive Wall with flanking towers and two still remain.

Ross Castle

We boarded our boat for a cruise of the lakes by the Ross Castle. Due to the cloudy, rainy conditions the boat wasn’t crowded.

From the boat we could see the castle and get a different perspective.

This cormorant is cooling off its feathers as we cruised by it.

A cormorant

Martin went on the boat cruise with us and he spotted the eagle. He was SO excited and we were too!

The Brickeen Bridge dates back to the mid-18th century and is a stone arch bridge that connects Muckross Lake and Lough Leane.

Brickeen Bridge

On Lough Leane we saw Inisfallen Island. It was once home to a monastery dating back to 640 AD founded by Finian the Leper. The island was a place of solitude for the monks to reflect and pray. Today there are ruins of a 12th century Augustinian Priory and a Romanesque Church.

Inisfallen Island’s Ruins

Even though the sun wasn’t shining we enjoyed our time on the water!

On our way to the hotel Martin pointed out the only green light in town that is shaped like a shamrock! He drove slowly so we could snap a picture.

Shamrock Green light

After dinner we went into Buckley’s Bar for a drink with friends. We were enjoying our drink when the music duo sat next to us to begin playing their music!

An accordian player and singer/guitarist

They asked us where we were from and when the four of us said Ohio. They sang a special song, “Banks of the Ohio”!

It was another full day!

Heart & Soul of Ireland- Day 10

This morning we walked along Lahinch’s promenade to the Celtic T-shirt shop. The Atlantic Ocean was really rough. We had to watch out for waves that came over the sea wall.

The Celtic T-shirt shop is family-centered. We met the artist who created the silk screen shirts we purchased. The shop opened early for us and we were appreciative of the owner making this accommodation!

CelticT-Shirt Store

This plaque was placed on a business wall adjacent to the Wild Atlantic Way on the 50th anniversary of a US B-24 Liberator’s emergency landing on the beach. The aircraft was running low on fuel and didn’t have radio contact.

Plaque commemorating 50th anniversary of B-24 bomber’s landing

We drove by the Ennistymon Cascades of the Inagh River. We could hear the water cascading across the rocks. It is the most photographed natural attraction in Clare. The river flows over a ridge of rocks toward the bay and then on to the Atlantic Ocean.

Our next stop was a visit to Bunratty Castle and Folk Park that sits on 26 acres.

Map of Bunratty Village

This is the 15th century Bunratty Castle. The site where it stands was once a Viking trading camp in 970. This castle is the last of four castles to be built here.

The Folk Park adjoins the castle and portrays what everyday life was like in rural Ireland about 100 years ago. It is a living museum. The village has over thirty buildings that contain reconstructed farmhouses, cottages, and shops. We wandered the streets of Bunratty Village.

The Golden Vale is a 19th century restored farmhouse where a properous farmer and family would have lived.

In a restored Artisan home was the O’Neill Jewelry and Pottery store. You could buy handmade jewelry by Shirley O’Neill and her family had been making pottery for many years. Each piece is unique.

We stopped in the Doctor’s House.

We walked up to the Bunratty House which wasn’t opened. It was built in 1805

The gardens and pathways were well maintained. We walked the entire grounds.

The Ardcroney Church was part of the Church of Ireland. It was built in 1838 and was moved to Bunratty in 1998.

The Vertical Water Mill is a reconstructed 19th century. It is operational and uses a vertical waterwheel to turn the grinding stone. It uses traditional Irish engineering.

When we left the village we stopped by the Adare Manor Golf Club. As we approached we saw the Adare Desmond Castle from 1200 AD that is located on the edge of the village of Adare and sits on the banks of the River Maigue.

Adare Desmond Castle

The castle is a beautiful backdrop to the 1st and 15th greens at Adare Manor Golf Club.

The Adare Manor Golf Club is an 18 hole championship course and will host the 2027 Ryder Cup. The Ryder Cup is held in September and is a match between Europe and the USA. There is a gate to drive into the Club and is manned by a well-dressed gatekeeper.

Martin talked to the guard and he let us through so our golfers could visit the Pro Shop.

Martin saw the owner of Adare Manor Golf Club and had his picture taken with him! JP McManus is a billionaire who also is a businessman and racehorse owner.

JP McManus owner of 2026 Ryder cup golf course and Martin

While our golfers were in the Pro Shop Martin drove the rest of us to the Adare Heritage Village. It is lined with traditional thatched-roof cottages. We had lunch in the cafe at the Heritage Center.

On our way to Killarney we made a stop at the Barnagh Viewing Point. It is a scenic spot with panoramic views. On a clear day you can see the fertile pastures of the County Limerick, Golden Vale and into the Counties Cork and Clare. It was an overcast day for us.

Newcastle West overlooks the winding River Arra. We drove through the town center and saw the Desmond Castle.

Desmond Castle and Banqueting Hall

The Desmond Castle is a historic complex from the 12th century and located in the city center. It was built by the Earls of Desmond and was occupied until the 1930s. Its main feature is its two-story banquet hall.

It was early evening when we checked in to the Arbutus Hotel in Killarney. It was in a great location for exploring the city.

These are a few pictures from inside our hotel! The Arbutus Hotel was established in 1926 by Tim Buckley and his wife Julia. The hotel is still family run. They named it after the only tree native to Ireland, the Arbutus. Tim Buckley also liked that the hotel name began with an “A” because it would appear earlier in brochures and pamphlets!

Once we dropped our luggage we met others to begin exploring the city and find a place for dinner. As we walked we stopped and did our tradition of spelling Ohio with our arms.

O-H-I-O

Near the car park in Killarney was a mural painted on a gable wall by artisits Adam and Darren Warren. It illustrates Killarney’s past.

Mural in Killarney

As we walked we were impressed with the workers who were scrapping, cleaning and painting the poles along the roadway in the evening.

Workers on the main street of Killarney

We found a restaurant named Hilliard’s that opened in 2022. It once was a well-known department store. People would come from all around to shop here. It was a department store where you could buy anything and it was of good quality.

The Hilliard’s sign on the building is from 1917.

The Drapery department is where the new restaurant is located and the cocktail bar stands where the shoe department was located.

Our meal was delicious.

On the menu they mention the history of Hilliard’s.

After dinner we walked back to our hotel. Left our coats in our room and went down to Buckley’s Bar which is part of the Arbutus Hotel.

Buckley’s Bar is a traditional Irish bar with live traditional music. The bar has oak paneled walls, a turf fire and serves bar food. We enjoyed a drink and listened to a trio perform. The musicians just sit at a reserved table and begin playing. The bar is known for having some of the country’s finest musicians drop in for an unplanned jam session!

After our drink we were ready for some sleep for tomorrow’s adventures.