Iconic Iceland, Greenland & Canada Day 9

Ísafjörður, Iceland, located in the Skutulsfjordur fjord, was our stop for today.

Isafjörður harbor where the ship anchored

The excursion we had booked was to Vigor Island for bird watching of puffins, Arctic terns and black guillémots and other wildlife. Unfortunately the weather didn’t cooperate. It was very windy and cold. The temperature was in the 30’s! Since this excursion was cancelled due to the winds and waves we did the included city tour of Ísafjördur and Bolungarvik Village.

Ísafjörður, who’s name meant ice fjord, had about 2,800 inhabitants. The town sat at the foot of dramatic mountain slopes. The oldest home in Iceland was here and it was built in 1734.

Looking at the harbor and Ísafjörður

Our ship anchored in the harbor and we tendered in for our tour and it was windy on our boat ride.

From the town we went to Bolungarvik and stopped at their community center. We were entertained with a fifteen minute concert of local music.

The next stop was the Ósvör Maritime museum. It was an outdoor experience located down by the sea.

Looking at the Ósvör Maritime Museum

The museum was a replica of an old Icelandic fishing station from the 19th century and was built on the ruins of old fishing huts. There was a reconstructed fisherman’s hut, a salting house, a hut to dry fish, a rowboat, a tug capstan and in the hut were tools of every day use.

We were welcomed by a curator who was dressed in the traditional fisherman outfit that was made of sheepskin.

A replica of the rowboat the fishermen used in the 19th century.

Near the museum was the Óshóla lighthouse. It was built in 1937, about 21 feet tall and made of concrete.

On our drive to get to the museum we went through a mountain tunnel that was about three miles long.

Mountain tunnel

We stopped at the Bunárfoss Waterfall. It was 262 feet.

Legend stated that if you drink water from the falls it would add a year to your life!

On our drive back to Ísafjörður we passed the Hnifsdalur cemetery and closest to the sea was a memorial for drowned fishermen.

Below were views of Ísafjörður as we headed back to the harbor.

This evening we attended “Dancing Keys” with Adam Johnson. He was quite the piano entertainer.

The sunset was brilliant when we walked out of the theater around 10:00 PM.

We left Iceland and we’re headed to Greenland in the North Atlantic ocean!

Iconic Iceland, Greenland & Canada Day 8

Today we visited the town of Akureyi, the “Capital of the North”. It was located at the end of a fjord, Eyjafjördur. Its location was 62 miles from the Arctic Circle. Akureyri was the second largest city in Iceland with a population around 19,000. The founder of the city was an Irish Viking, Helgi Magri Eyvindarson in the 9th century.

On the hilltop was the local church, Akureyarkirkja, which had a stained glass window that originated in the Coventry Cathedral in London, England prior to its destruction in WWII.

The Akureyri Church
Water vapor off the stream and fjord

The traffic lights had heart shaped stop signs instead of solid circles. This was one attempt to boost its citizens’ morale, especially during the dark days of winter.

Heart shaped stop light

We traveled again along the Ring road. Our first stop was the northeastern shore of Mývatn Lake which was part of the Diamond Circle in Iceland. Lake Mývatn was created from a massive basaltic eruption about 2,300 years ago. During this eruption the lava flowed and it encountered wetlands and lower-lying areas. The hot lava mixed with water and caused steam explosions that created pseudocraters.

The lava caused an obstruction that dammed up the water which created Lake Mývatn. It’s one of the largest lakes in Iceland.

It was a beautiful area as we walked around the lake even though it was overcast.

We had an early lunch which included one drink of your choice, slaw, cooked potatoes, Arctic shark and tomato soup. The tomato soup was not gluten free so I had a lamb vegetable soup.

Our drink choice was set our table

The Hverir Geothermal area that was also called Námafjall was otherworldly. We saw colorful mineral deposits that were shades of orange, yellows, reds, and greens. It felt like being on another planet. NASA brought astronauts here to train. It was located on the east side of Lake Mývatn. Fumarole gas contains hydrogen sulfide that caused the smell of rotten eggs. Yes, it did smell!

Hverir Geothermal area and its surreal landscape

There were smoking fumaroles. At a depth of over 3,000 feet the temperature was 392˚F, so water that flowed below was quickly heated and came to the surface as steam. These steam vents resulted from the intense geothermal activity beneath the surface where magma heated the groundwater that caused it to rise and escape through fissures in the earth’s crust.

We also saw boiling mud pots that were surrounded by sulphur crystals of different colors. These bubbling mud pots were formed when acidic gasses interact with the surrounding rocks and broke them into thick mud.

Watch the short video below that illustrated the boiling mud pots!

Dimmuborgir when translated means “dark castles”. We spent some time walking through this area. These lava formations were created about 2,300 years ago from a volcanic eruption. We saw lava pillars, caves, rugged crags and towering rocks.

Walking toward Dimmuborgir

It was a dramatic expanse of lava. Some of these spectacular pillars reached 65 feet in height!

We used our imagination to transform a rock into the face of a troll of something else. Look at the picture below and do you see the profile of a troll?

Troll’s Profile

Do you see the kissing trolls in this picture?

Kissing Troll

What about a chicken in the picture below?

If you watched Game of Thrones, Dimmuborgir was featured. It was filmed during the winter and was where Mance Rayder held his wildling army.

Some more pictures from our walk through the formations.

The locals believed that Yule Lads lived in Dimmuborgir. In December, you could see these beings around the area. It would be fun to have experienced this.

Icelandic Yule Lads

As we walked it was pointed out to us the crack in the earth due to the two tectonic plates, the North American and the Eurasian.

Nearby was a volcano and it you look closely you could see the hikers on the top.

The last stop was to Godafoss, also part of the Diamond Circle. Its name translated to “waterfall of the gods”. The waterfall cascaded over a horseshoe shape and spanned about 100 feet and plummeted 39 feet. It flowed from the river Skjálfandafljót which orginated in the Icelandic highlands.

Goðafoss Waterfall

The power of the water over the falls was amazing.

The falls and the river was beautiful.

The continuation of the river from the falls
Looking back toward Goðafoss in the background

We were back on the ship just before we sailed from Akureyi. We took a couple of pictures as we sailed out of the Eyjafjördur fjord.

Tomorrow we would arrive in Isafjördur, Iceland.

Iconic Iceland, Greenland & Canada Day 7

Our ship arrived to Seydisfjórdour, Iceland located at the end of a beautiful fjord, early this morning. It was located in East Iceland and surrounded by mountains and waterfalls. The main occupation was fishing and now included tourism! Many cruise ships stopped here.

We were on the first walking tour of the town. The ship was docked so we didn’t need to get on a tender. Seydisfjórdur was a town of about 650 people with one road leading in and out of town. In the winter and early spring the road could be closed due to wintry conditions.

Seydisfjórdur was prone to avalanches due to its steep-sided mountain slopes. In December, 2020 the town had a huge mud slide that demolished more than ten homes and damaged others. The town has added avalanche protection walls all around.

The mountain where the mudslide occurred.
Pictures from the mudslide and clean up.

The District Commissioner’s building had multiple agencies. They included police management, customs management, state tax collector, Social Security agency, licensing, family and child affairs and proxy voting. All of these were handled in this one building!

District Commissioner’s Building

As we walked around the village we saw some beautiful flower gardens.

The Blue Church was a well-known landmark in town. It was known for its blue color and architectural style. It was moved to its present location in 1920.

The street that lead from the church was Seydisfjórdur’s Rainbow street. The town was very welcoming to the LGBTQ community and its rainbow path was painted as a symbol to respect and tolerance. We noticed the inclusivity and acceptance of all throughout Iceland.

The Rainbow Path

Along the rainbow path there were shops and galleries with colorful artwork that decorated the buildings.

We visited the only grocery store in Seydisfjórdur. The grocery store also sold socks, underwear, and souvenirs!

Kjörbúðin Supermarket

After the walking tour we enjoyed a “Viking Festival”. It was held in the Herǒubreiǒ Community Center. We enjoyed food and drink that was provided by the Hótel Aldan. Rhubarb proseco was served along with -double smoked lamb on homemade flat bread, -Arctic char mousse, barley cracker from Vallanes, dresh dill, -regional goat cheese, gluten free biscuit, rhubarb jam, -Happy Marriage cake. I was given a plate with all gluten free food. The food and drink was delicious. Music was provided by Bjort Sigfinnsdóttir, singer and Jón Hilmar Kárason, guitarist. They were very entertaining.

Near the Blue church was a monument to honor Ingi T. Lárusson (1892-1946) who was born in Seydisfjórdur and an Icelandic composer.

Monument to Ingi T. Lárusson

The memorial to Otto Andreas Wathne (1843-1898) was on our walk around the town. He was a merchant and shipowner born in Norway. He founded Seydisfjórdur.

Otto Wathne Memorial

We also hiked up to Búðarárfoss waterfall. You could see the town from the falls. It was a little over 196 feet high.

Buðarárfoss Waterfall
View of the town below
Our ship in the harbor.

On our way back to the ship we stopped at the outdoor exhibit of Women who had influenced the town over the years!

The scenery was stunning as our ship left the pier and sailed out of the fjord.

This evening we attended two lectures on the ship. The first one was by Clive Steeper who talked about his story as a race driver. He included videos of racing on the track and those experiences.

The other lecture was by Dr. Ronald Orenstein on “The Natural History of Fjords”. His talk was informative.

Tomorrow we will be in Akureyri, Iceland.

Iconic Iceland, Greenland & Canada Day 6

This morning we arrived in the town of Djúpivogur.

Our excursion was a full day and was called “Fjallsárión Ice Lagoon by Zodiac”. Our guide pointed out the sights as we traveled by bus.

Passing through Djúpivogur

He pointed out the Icelandic horses. A lot of these horses were along the road. They were smaller than most horse breeds in the world. These horses could survive the harsh Iceland weather. Icelandic horses had five gaits where other horses have three: walk, trot, and gallop. The two that these horses had was tölt and flugskeið. Tölt was a 4-beat ambling gait. The horse always had one or two feet touching the ground at equal intervals. Flugskeið had been nicknamed the fifth gear. It was very fast and a horse could reach speeds up to 30 mph on it. Not all Icelandic horses could do the flugskeið.

Icelandic Horses

We saw swans that migrated from England and spent the summer along the East coast of Iceland. Some bird watchers had counted up to 30,000!

Swans in the bay

The geology of the area was quite interesting. The layers of lava flows were apparent. The jagged steep cliffs were imposing.

A view of the landscape

As we rode along the “Ring Road”,which was an 820 mile loop that connected most towns and villages. We saw spring water flowing that was clear and glacier runoff that was murky.

We saw potato farms and sheep along the road. The sheep had the right of way. Our bus had to stop and wait for the sheep to cross the road. We also crossed over one lane bridges.

As we approached our destination, Fjallsárlón, we saw glaciers in the distance.

Fjallsárlón was a glacier lagoon that’s about 20 years old when the glacier started to recede up the mountain. Fjallsárlón was an outlet glacier of Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Europe.

We were fitted with a heavy duty parka that would keep us warm and dry when we were on the water.

Dave in his parka and life jacket

After getting our parka and life jacket, we hiked down to the lagoon where we boarded a zodiac boat. It was nice to be in small groups with a guide.

Zodiac Boats at the lagoon!
Our zodiac guide holding ice

It was an overcast day so the glacier and the icebergs weren’t glistening but we enjoyed our time on the lagoon.

In front of the Fjallsárlón Glacier

After our zodiac ride on the lagoon we hiked up to the equipment shelter and turned in our parkas and life jackets. Lunch was served in the restaurant at the site and it was good.

On our drive back to the ship we drove along the North Atlantic shore.

N. Atlantic Ocean shoreline

We returned from our day excursion in time to hear Sue Stockdale a guest lecturer on board. This talk was called “Magnetic Attraction”. She discussed what motivated her to go on her adventure to the North Pole. In 1996 she was the first British woman to ski to the Magnetic North Pole. She was very interesting and she included videos and pictures of her experience. She was quite an adventurer!

Sue Stockdale’s Adventure

It was another busy day exploring!

Iconic Iceland, Greenland & Canada Day 5

We tendered from our boat for our walking tour of Heimaey Island. The tender docked in the marina. Fishing was the main occupation and much of Iceland’s fish exports came from here!

Viking Mars Tender Boat

Heimaey was part of the Westman Islands and was the only island inhabited. It had one town, Vestmannaeyjar, with approximately 4,500 residents. It was a gorgeous day but windy!

Heimaey Harbor
Part of the town, Vestmannaeyjar

Our guide’s family moved here when she was four years old and she has stayed.

Our guide

She shared with us a puffling, a baby puffin. The adults nest in the mountains and this time of year they fly off and the pufflings need to get to the ocean.

A Puffling

The people in the town rescue the pufflings that get confused by the town lights and thinking it’s the ocean and end up in town. The children in town helped search for the pufflings and if they located one, they would they take it to the sea.

Our guide discussed as we walked all about the last volcanic eruption in 1973. Luckily for the town when the eruption occurred the weather was bad so all of the fishing boats were in the harbour and all but possibly one resident made it safely to the mainland of Iceland.

We walked up the hardened rocky hill that was 50 years old that buried homes, streets, the swimming pool and more! It was solidified molten river that was 50 feet deep!

The hardened lava and the town in the background

As we climbed up the hill we could see where the lava flow stopped in the backyard of a home!

Lava flow stopped right at the backyard of this home.

The old water tower was partly destroyed by the 1973 eruption. The pictures below show the tower and the where the lava flow stopped.

The town added street signs along the rocky hill of lava where the streets were once located!

One of the street signs of the location of the former street.

Our walking tour ended at the Eldheimar Volcano museum. This was a self-guided tour with an audio guide. The museum was built around the remains of one home that archaeologists uncovered. The home was buried in lava and ash during the eruption. The family escaped unharmed. It was a very moving exhibit of the power of nature and the destruction it caused.

Artifacts that had been uncovered were on display. Below was a table setting.

Table setting

Below was a group of pictures in the museum from the eruption!

Pictures from the eruption in 1973

After touring the museum we walked around town and it was very quiet. We passed the town hall. It was originally built as a hospital in 1927 and in 1977 it was transformed into the town hall. In the picture below on the left side of the building is an ash pole that showed how high the ash had accumulated after the 1973 eruption.

Town Hall

Across the lawn from the town hall was a statue called “the Big Giantess” (Tröllskessan) by the sculptor Asmundur Sveinsson in 1975.

The Big Giantess

It was a joy to see the children playing in the park on such a clear day with not a cloud in the sky!

Playing in the park

The preschool/kindergarten building was opened in 2007 for the children on the island.

School for 3-5 year olds.

Heimaey Island was always windy so you won’t find many trees or any that are very tall. We saw their only “forest” on the island.

Heimeay Island “forest”

Landlyst was the oldest residence on the island and was moved to its current location in 2000. It was the former home of Iceland’s first maternity hospital. It’s a medical museum today. Below Landlyst was a wooden church that was donated by Norway in 2000. It marked the millennium of Christianity in Iceland.

The church was on the left and on the right was the Landlyst Medical Museum.

Below is a slideshow of additional pictures from Heimaey Island.

Along the cliffs were many birds but we also saw puffins from a distance.

Puffins and sheep!
View of Heimaey Island from the ship.

As the ship sailed from Heimaey Island we saw some beautiful islands.

We also could see the snow covered mountains of Iceland.

Snow covered mountains from Iceland

It was such a nice day that we sat on our balcony as the ship sailed toward our next stop. We saw some whales too!

Today was a day full of exploring and learning all about the island and the volcanic eruption in 1973 that reshaped the landscape drastically!

Iconic Iceland, Greenland & Canada Day 4

This morning was check out from the hotel and wait for the transfer bus that would take us to the Viking Mars, our ship for the next 14 days! Once we checked in and boarded the ship, we ate a quick lunch and then took the free shuttle into the downtown area of Reykjovik.

The stop was right by Harpa which was a concert hall and conference center that opened in 2011. It had won awards for its architecture. It was a must see because of the buildings distinctive colored glass facade and its shape.

Outside the Harpa was the statue of the Danish cellist Erling Blondal Bengtsson by the sculptor Ólöf Pálsdóttir. It was moved from its former location because of his widow’s request to have it by the concert hall.

Danish cellist Erling Blöndal Bengtsson

Also in the heart of Reykjavik was the statue of the “Water Carrier” or Vatnsberinn by Asmundur Sveinsson. It was cast in bronze in 1967 and wasn’t placed in its current location until 2011. The last well of Reykjavik was at this location.

Water Carrier

A very popular stop in town was the famous Bæjarins Beztu Pyslur Hot Dog Stand. Their Icelandic hot dog was made from lamb meat with pork and beef and then add your toppings (ketchup, sweet mustard, remoulade, crisp fried onion and raw onion)! It was a small stand with a line that wrapped around and down the street. The stand was in business since 1937. We stopped at the original location. The employees are paid by the hot dogs sold so they move quickly! Unfortunately, Dave didn’t get to try one because the line was really long and he didn’t want to waste time waiting. We took pictures instead!

As we walked, we also passed by the Stjórnarráðshúsið. Try to say that name! It was the Cabinet House. It was built in the mid 1700s as a prison but now it was the offices of the prime minister. The two statues in front were by the  sculptor Einar Jónsson. One depicts King Christian IX handing over the constitution in 1874, and the other was of Hannes Hafstein, who became the first minister of the country in 1904.

As we walked we went up Arnarholl (a hill) and saw the statue of Ingolfur Arnarson. The monument was erected in 1907. Arnarson was considered the founder of Reykjavik in 874 A.D.

Ingolfur Arnarson

We walked to the Hard Rock Cafe to get a pin and then walked up the main shopping area of Reykjavik. After that we ventured back down to the shuttle stop. Near the stop we caught a taxi that took us to the Perlan Museum. Dave also scheduled with our driver to pick us up at 5:00 PM which would give us three hours to visit the museum.

Our museum ticket included all areas: the Northern Light Planetarium show, the Ice Cave and Glaciers exhibit, the Volcano show, Látrabjarg Cliff (a realistic model of the largest seabird cliff in Europe), water in Icelandic Nature, the Observation Deck and more.

Our first stop was the Áróra Northern Light Planetarium show which was 20 minutes long and it was educational. It explained the science behind the northern lights. We felt it was well done.

We passed through the Glacier and Ice Cave Exhibit. We walked through the cave made from over 350 tons of snow and ice. The temperature was sub-zero and man made. It was a replica of walking in a glacier. It was definitely freezing in the cave.

In the area called the Wonders of Iceland had displays that demonstrated how nature shaped Iceland’s landscapes.

The Volcano show focused on the Geldingadlir volcano that began erupting near Reykjavik in 2021. It was the first eruption near this area in 800 years! The show was very well done.

The Observation Deck gave us 360˚ views of Reykjavik and its surrounding areas. It was a cloudy, cold, and windy day but it was still fun to look out at the area.

We were back on our ship by 5:30ish. Our stateroom was ready and we proceeded to unpack and organize our belongings. We needed to organize after living out of our suitcases for three days!

Looking out at our cabin deck.

We sailed before 8:00 PM and were on our way toward Heimaey Island.

This evening we enjoyed listening to the Viking Band and Singers.

It was a relaxing way to end a busy day!

Iconic Iceland, Greenland & Canada Day 3

Friday, August 16th, 2024

This morning a bus picked us up at our hotel and took us to the bus transfer station where we got on another bus that would take us to the Blue Lagoon. The ride took about 50 minutes! This was an excursion we set up in advance through Viator. We have always been pleased with their offerings and again the excursion was as described.

The Blue Lagoon was located in southwestern Iceland near the town of Grindavik. Lava fields surrounded the area. We were on a gravel road for the last part of our bus ride due to newer lava deposits on the former route.

The Blue Lagoon was a geothermal seawater spa with a temperature of 102˚ F. The water was rich in minerals and known for its hydrating and revitalization of your skin. The outside temperature was in the 40s but it didn’t bother us.

The Blue Lagoon

It was announced when we arrived that they were expecting another volcanic eruption at anytime. If we heard the sirens go off we were to leave the lagoon and grab our things to be evacuated from the area. Thankfully that didn’t happen when we visited but there was an eruption six days later and the Blue Lagoon was evacuated!

Before entering the thermal bath we were to shower and it was advised to put conditioner that they provided and leave it in your hair because the water can dry out your hair. The water was rich in silica, algae, and minerals. You received a towel when you are finished in the lagoon and ready to take another shower before dressing. An electronic wristband was given to each of us. It served as your locker key and also was used for any other purchases.

The water depth was from waist deep up to chest high. We found spots where the hot water entered the pool. There were lifeguards located around the entire area. The water felt wonderful! We enjoyed relaxing in the thermal bath. It was warm and felt good on our skin.

We visited the swim-up bar and purchased glasses of wine that we enjoyed in the pool.

Enjoying a swim with wine!

Another stop was the mask bar where we received our free ladleful of the white silica mud. We put it all over our faces and let it set for 10 minutes and then washed it off.

Our silica mud masks!

When we were finished with the thermal bath, we grabbed a towel, went in the locker room, showered, dressed and checked out. When we left we walked the path that went along the lagoon that hadn’t been touched. It was like walking in another world!

After our return from the Blue Lagoon, we left our swimsuits to dry in our hotel room and walked to the North Atlantic ocean. Along the shore walk were various sculptures.

Walking along the Shore

The first sculpture we came up to was the “Partnership sculpture” by Pétur Bjarnason. It commemorated 50 years of cooperation between the USA and Iceland. An identical copy can be found in Miami, Florida. Iceland’s was being worked on when we visited.

Partnership Sculpture

The “Shore Piece” by Sigurdur Gudmundsson looked like a group of shiny smooth rocks by the shore. We missed getting a picture.

Höfði Lighthouse was placed on reclaimed land in 2019. It was designed like the lighthouses used here in the 1910s.

Höfði Lighthouse

The Höfði House was on our walk and was known for hosting the 1986 summit between Ronald Reagan of the USA and Mikhail Gorbachev from Russia to end the Cold War. This was the beginning of talks!

Höfði House

Another abstract sculpture along our shore walk was “The Island Guard” by Jóhann Eyfells that was placed in 2006.

The Island Guard

“The Sun Voyager” was sculpted by Jón Gunnar Arnason. He won the competition for a sculpture for Reykjavik’s 200th year anniversary. It was a steel sculpture that looked like a Viking long ship and it was placed in 1990.

From “The Sun Voyager” we headed uphill and back into town. We walked along Frakkastigur and found a restaurant for lunch/dinner.

Around the corner from the restaurant was Rainbow Street which was one of the main streets in town. It was painted rainbow colors to celebrate Reykjavik Pride and support diversity. It was busy when we were there. We stopped in some of the shops and browsed.

It was getting late and a little misty so we started our walk back to our hotel. We got five miles of walking in today which we thought was good since our morning was relaxing in the thermal baths! Tomorrow we board the Viking Mars and then explore more of Reykjavik!

Iconic Iceland, Greenland & Canada Day 1 & 2

Wednesday, August 14th, 2024

We left Columbus on time and flew to JFK airport in New York City. Our airline was Delta and we were bumped up to first class for this flight. The layover was about three hours in New York before we boarded our overnight flight to Iceland.

Heading toward JFK Airport

Iceland is four hours ahead of EST. We landed around 9:30 AM and went through Customs. Our luggage was delayed due to a technical issue with the baggage carousel.  We waited for about 45 minutes but we finally received our luggage!  We have no complaints because our bags arrived!

After going through Customs we met our Viking representative. Six of us rode together to get to our hotel, the Grand Hotel Reykjavik.

Grand Hotel Reykjavik

We left our luggage in a secured room and went exploring. The weather was overcast and chilly. We walked into town and enjoyed all the scenery as we headed to Hallgrimskirkja, an Evangelical Lutheran church. It was dedicated to the most renowned sacred poet of Iceland, Hallgrimur Pétursson. It was the largest church in Iceland and was built between 1945 and 1986.

Hallgrimskirkja church

It also housed the largest organ in the country. An organist was playing the organ when we arrived.

Organ in Hallgrimskirkja church

We purchased tickets to take the elevator up the tower in the church to see views of the city. The tower was 73 meters or 239 1/2 feet high. Below are a few panoramic pictures from the tower.

Some pictures from our walk around the city.

We had lunch at Reykjavik Kitchen. We used the “Find Me Gluten Free” app and found this restaurant. It had great ambiance. Our soup and salad was delicious.

After walking around the city, touring the church, and having lunch, we were exhausted when we got back to the hotel. We went to our room and finally had a chance to shower and put on fresh clothes. It was amazing how much a shower can rejuvenate you when you’d been awake for 36 hours!

We had our lunch late in the afternoon so we skipped dinner and just got a snack from the hotel and we were ready for some sleep by 9:00 PM! We will be ready for more adventures tomorrow after a good night’s sleep!