Iconic Iceland, Greenland & Canada Day 10 & Day 11

Today was a “Day at Sea”. We had a chance to read. So it was a quiet day. There were three lectures that we attended in the afternoon and evening.

The first lecture was by Rear Admiral John Lippiett. His presentation was called “Sailors Discover the Unknown World 500 Years Ago”. He explained how early maps revealed information about the European explorers who tried to find “riches in the East”.

Not long after Lippiett’s lecture, we attended Dr. Ronald Orenstein’s presentation called “What to See at Sea- Seabirds and Other Creatures”. He presented on the birds we have seen or might see as we sailed on our cruise.

The last presentation we attended today was Sue Stockdale’s talk on her “Crossing the Greenland Ice Cap- A Lesson in Teamwork”. This was another epic adventure that she did with a team of other adventurers. Her trek was quite fascinating as the team crossed the Greenland Ice Cap.

We didn’t arrive in Nanortalik, Greenland until 2:00 PM but this morning from 7:00 AM until 11:00ish we sailed in Greenland’s Prince Christian Sound. Sue Stockdale, a guest lecturer on our ship who skied the Greenland Ice Cap, gave a commentary about what we were seeing as we sailed.

The sun was rising over the fjord of Prince Christian Sound.

The sun was relecting off the mountains and the icebergs. It was stunning!

Prince Christian Sound was approximately 60 miles long and located in Greenland’s southern edge and was a narrow passage. Below was a map that illustrated the sound as we sailed through it.

map of the Prince Christian Sound and it showed where some of our pictures were taken!

Prince Christian Sound was named after the prince, later he became king Christian VII of Denmark.

We watched from our deck for part of the time and then went to the front of the ship so we could see both sides of the Sound.

The view was absolutely breathtaking. We saw many waterfalls, icebergs of all sizes, glaciers, and some glaciers that reached the sea!

We had so many fabulous pictures it was very difficult to choose a few for this post. The icebergs we saw reminded us a little of Antarctica. Of course, Antarctica had more.

We saw glaciers as we sailed. They were magnificent.

The terrain was filled with steep mountains and a rugged terrain.

The snow melted and we saw many waterfalls that flowed all the way down the mountains.

We saw snow-covered mountains.

There was one settlement in Prince Christian Sound called Aappilattoq. The name meant “red” after the red mountain. There were 100 inhabitants living there. Aappilattoq people fish and hunt and were isolated except for when a boat stopped by or a helicopter flew into the settlement.

Approaching Aappilattoq

The settlement had colorful houses. One can see how isolated this town was along the Sound.

We still saw icebergs when we left the sound into the North Atlantic ocean.

Sailing up to Nanortalik, Greenland.

When we arrived at the island of Nanortalik we tendered in to the town. The sky was clear but the air was windy and chillly. Nanortalik was Greenland’s southernmost town. Its name meant a “place of polar bears”.

Some of the boats tied up in the Nanortalik harbor.

The town’s main industries were seal hunting, hunting crabs, fishing and service and administration with about 1,000 inhabitants. As we walked around, a celebration was happening.

Locals celebrating and enjoying food and drink.

The homes were painted bright colors. We loved walking among the town’s homes.

We had a self-guided tour of the town and its open air museum. Locals were out selling their handcrafted items. We purchased a Christmas ornament from a woman who had maded it from beads. She told us she had made the ornament along with six more!

A street sign along the gravel road and rocky terrain in town.

The Nanortalik Open Air Museum had buildings that housed different aspects of the history of the area with nine historic buildings. One building showed the Viking way of life.

One building had Inuit fishing and hunting tools, kayaks and more.

The former blubber house had displays.

Another building was the former train oil factory.

Another building was filled with medical equipment.

Dave climbed up the narrow stairway for a panoramic view of the area!

Dave looking out at the town of Nanortalik

There was one lutheran church in town. It was wooden and built in 1916.

Many of the locals were out enjoying the day.

The tide was out when we tendered back to the ship.

Boats grounded because the tide was out.

When we looked out at the ocean from town, we could see icebergs floating.

Tomorrow we will make another stop in Greenland.

Iconic Iceland, Greenland & Canada Day 6

This morning we arrived in the town of Djúpivogur.

Our excursion was a full day and was called “Fjallsárión Ice Lagoon by Zodiac”. Our guide pointed out the sights as we traveled by bus.

Passing through Djúpivogur

He pointed out the Icelandic horses. A lot of these horses were along the road. They were smaller than most horse breeds in the world. These horses could survive the harsh Iceland weather. Icelandic horses had five gaits where other horses have three: walk, trot, and gallop. The two that these horses had was tölt and flugskeið. Tölt was a 4-beat ambling gait. The horse always had one or two feet touching the ground at equal intervals. Flugskeið had been nicknamed the fifth gear. It was very fast and a horse could reach speeds up to 30 mph on it. Not all Icelandic horses could do the flugskeið.

Icelandic Horses

We saw swans that migrated from England and spent the summer along the East coast of Iceland. Some bird watchers had counted up to 30,000!

Swans in the bay

The geology of the area was quite interesting. The layers of lava flows were apparent. The jagged steep cliffs were imposing.

A view of the landscape

As we rode along the “Ring Road”,which was an 820 mile loop that connected most towns and villages. We saw spring water flowing that was clear and glacier runoff that was murky.

We saw potato farms and sheep along the road. The sheep had the right of way. Our bus had to stop and wait for the sheep to cross the road. We also crossed over one lane bridges.

As we approached our destination, Fjallsárlón, we saw glaciers in the distance.

Fjallsárlón was a glacier lagoon that’s about 20 years old when the glacier started to recede up the mountain. Fjallsárlón was an outlet glacier of Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Europe.

We were fitted with a heavy duty parka that would keep us warm and dry when we were on the water.

Dave in his parka and life jacket

After getting our parka and life jacket, we hiked down to the lagoon where we boarded a zodiac boat. It was nice to be in small groups with a guide.

Zodiac Boats at the lagoon!
Our zodiac guide holding ice

It was an overcast day so the glacier and the icebergs weren’t glistening but we enjoyed our time on the lagoon.

In front of the Fjallsárlón Glacier

After our zodiac ride on the lagoon we hiked up to the equipment shelter and turned in our parkas and life jackets. Lunch was served in the restaurant at the site and it was good.

On our drive back to the ship we drove along the North Atlantic shore.

N. Atlantic Ocean shoreline

We returned from our day excursion in time to hear Sue Stockdale a guest lecturer on board. This talk was called “Magnetic Attraction”. She discussed what motivated her to go on her adventure to the North Pole. In 1996 she was the first British woman to ski to the Magnetic North Pole. She was very interesting and she included videos and pictures of her experience. She was quite an adventurer!

Sue Stockdale’s Adventure

It was another busy day exploring!

Day 26 February 17th

Day 26

Saturday, February 17th

Back in Ushuaia and off to the airport

We were up early to get our passports from the ship’s reception desk.  They held on to everyone’s passport while we were on the ship.

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We each received a certificate at the end of our voyage!

After breakfast we were given our boarding passes by a Quark’s Ushuaia representatives.

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Coming into Ushuaia in the morning.

On our way to get our belongings out of our cabin, we noticed this message from our kayak guides.  We were so glad that we were part of this special group!

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Buses took us from the ship dock to the airport.

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Ushuaia’s airport.

We had three hours until our flight.  Many of the people on our ship were also on our flight from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires.  So we chatted and did some reading in the airport.  Our flight was 3 1/2 hours to the airport in Buenos Aires.  We again had several hours before our overnight flight to Atlanta, Georgia.  The sky was really clear when we took off from Buenos Aires.

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Just one view of part of Buenos Aires.

We went through customs in Atlanta and then had time to get from the international concourse to the concourse for our flight to Columbus!  Twenty four hours of being in airports and planes was long enough for us.  We were thankful our flights were on time and went smoothly!

This trip was an incredible adventure and we highly recommend experiencing the 7th continent.  Our words and pictures don’t adequately portray the splendor and beauty of the wildlife and landscape of Antarctica, South Georgia, and the Falkland Islands

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We look forward to more traveling adventures and sharing them with you!

 

Day 23 February, 14th

Day 23

Wednesday, February 14th     Valentine’s Day

Cuverville Island, Melchior Islands, Farewell Celebration

We arrived at Cuverville Island which contains the largest gentoo penguin colony in the region.  Cuverville is located in the Errera Channel.  We were able to kayak, the winds and the weather cooperated!  We circumnavigated the island in our kayaks.  We experienced the island from the water level!

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Cuverville Island and Gentoo Penguins!

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You could really smell the penguin guano from water level.

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Just some of the penguins from the water.

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More penguins!

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Penguins and a fur seal from one side of the island.

As we paddled the backside of the island we saw humpback whales!  They didn’t come close enough for a picture.  We don’t have many pictures from paddling because our water camera had quit working and our point and shoot is long gone so the only photos we took are from our phone and we didn’t want to lose them!  After our morning paddling experience was finished, we did have time to take a zodiac to the island and explore on our own!

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“You can’t catch me!”

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Coming back from feeding.

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Look at all that guano and of course the gentoo penguins! 🙂

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Love the backdrop for the gentoos!

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A smaller penguin highway. The snow is almost gone from this part of the island!

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“We’re starting to get our adult feathers!”

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A nosy penguin!

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A pair of penguins coming close to the camera.

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“I’ll just lay here ’til this molting phase is over!”

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Gentoo chick wandering close by.

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“What are you looking at?”

After all of us were back on the ship, the anchor was raised and we headed to the Melchior Islands.  Such beauty surrounds us as we cruise to our next stop!

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This was the board near the dining room that we checked daily for kayaking announcements!

We had lunch and this was going to be our last time to paddle!

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our kayak gear!

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These papers were hanging on our announcement board for us to mark if we were going to paddle when it was offered. On this particular kayak destination we didn’t get to paddle because of the wind! 🙁

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Our kayak assignment board.

At the Melchior Islands we were able to paddle around the Dallmann Bay while the rest of the passengers were on a zodiac tour.  We were glad that we got to paddle here.  The base pictures that you see below are of the Argentinian Base Melchior.  It is a summer base that is rarely occupied but today the Argentinian flag is flying and the base is occupied!

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Melchior Base which is owned by Argentina.

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Below is the area where we paddled.IMG_2570IMG_2573IMG_2577

Below are some of the photos we took with our phones.  It was a beautiful afternoon for our last paddle.

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These icebergs were very blue!

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What a backdrop for the Ocean Adventurer!

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“I need longer arms”! Our attempt at a selfie! 😉

How lucky we were to paddle with such a great group of people.  A big thank you to our kayak guides: Todd, on the far left, and Tara, on the far right!

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After returning from kayaking and the last of the zodiacs returned, we had a farewell toast to Antarctica on deck 5 aft.

Champagne and hors d’oeuvres were served and Ali gave a toast.

After the farewell to Antarctica toast, our ship entered the Drake Passage!  The ship began swaying.  Many passengers did not feel well again.  Those of us at dinner enjoyed a Valentine’s Day themed meal and the dining room was decorated too.

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The dining room is decorated for Valentine’s Day!

Tonight’s activity was the Expedition Team hosting a charity auction!

Day 22 February 13th

Day 22

Tuesday, February 13th

Fish Islands, Prospect Point

This morning we did a zodiac cruise through the pack ice and icebergs on our way to the Minnows.  The Fish Islands are individual islands that are named after different fish species:  Flounder, Plaice, Trout, Salmon and the islets known as The Minnows!

We began our zodiac cruise south of these islands. Following the edge we headed north. We took our time and attempted to traverse the narrow passages between the icebergs, brash & forming sea ice. The sky was overcast, and at times a brisk wind carried snowflakes onto our faces.  At one point we were worried that we wouldn’t make it to see our 7th species of penguin, the Adelie!IMG_2239IMG_2240IMG_2245IMG_2251

At least we saw 2 Adelie penguins on an sea ice and a seal resting!

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Our first glimpse of the Adelie penguin.

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This pair was moving all around the ice!

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He just looked at us because we were disturbing his rest!

We saw some incredible looking icebergs.  You know how you see shapes in clouds, we were doing the same with the icebergs.  It was impressive the color and shape variances.  Some of the icebergs appeared to be illuminated and some are so blue.  They are spectacular!  IMG_2253IMG_2283IMG_2284IMG_2295IMG_2301IMG_2311

We finally made it and had a short time to observe the Adelie penguins at The Minnows, which are low-lying, rocky outcrops. They are occupied by Adélie penguins, with an estimated 1600 breeding pairs between 12 colonies. Blue-eyed shags also breed on the islands and a few were seen flying back to check on their chicks!

The Adelie penguins are the smallest of the Antarctic penguins.  They are about 2 feet tall and weigh 8-9 pounds!  If you’ve ever read the children’s book Mr. Popper’s Penguins, Captain Cook is an Adelie penguin.IMG_2334IMG_2321IMG_2315

It was very cold on the zodiac due to the wind and waves that got us very wet.  The temperature was about 37 degrees F.

After lunch we were going to try to kayak but it was canceled due to the windy conditions.  We went on zodiacs over to Prospect Point.

Prospect Point was our second continental landing.IMG_2347

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Here we saw the remains of a British Surveying and Geological Base J.  This base was occupied from 1957-1959.  There are remains of seals (they are mummified from many winters) that were used to feed the dogs.

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British Base J

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The remains of J.

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A few of the mummified seals.

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A close up of a seal.

There was a hike up the snow to a beautiful view of the area.IMG_2386IMG_2392IMG_2381IMG_2395IMG_2423

It was another day of adventure in Antarctica!

Day 21 February 12th

Day 21

Monday, February 12th

The Antarctic Circle, Fish Islands, Polar Plunge

We didn’t have any kayaking today because of the winds being too strong!  🙁

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Our kayaks stayed strapped on their shelves!

Around 9:30 AM we crossed the Antarctic Circle.  Champagne was served and a celebration was held on the aft deck!

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Always fun on deck!

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We were very excited to be this far south!

As we continued south toward our destination, the sea ice was packed too thickly for us to arrive at our stop at Detaille Island which is located just south of the Antarctic Circle, 66°52′S 66°47′W.   It was the home of Station W.  It is a well preserved abandoned British research station from the late 1950s.  Crystal Sound, 66º45.492’ S, was our farthest location after the crossing of the Antarctic Circle.  Since the winds were too strong for this landing, we were told we would be taking a short zodiac cruise instead and then heading back north!

In the meantime, Miko did a presentation on his experience at the Polish Antarctic Research Station.  He is one of our marine biologists.  It was fascinating what all he did while stationed there.

Later on Mike did a talk about how the different ice forms develop and other information about icebergs.

The winds were still too strong so we didn’t even get to do the zodiac cruise around Detaille Island!  Maybe we’ll see it on another Antarctic Adventure. (I don’t think that will happen, but never say never!)  The ship then started heading north toward the Fish Islands.  We were going to attempt to do a zodiac cruise after dinner but it was too foggy here and we really want to see an Adelie penguin colony!  We’re going to try tomorrow.  I hope the weather cooperates.  Since there wasn’t going to be a cruise at the Fish Islands either, we were going to do the Polar Plunge after dinner!

A few more pictures from the icebergs as we headed toward our anchor spot for the “plunge”!

Around 9:30 it was time for the Polar Plunge!  There were 38 passengers and 2 of the expedition team members did the plunge too!  We both took the plunge!  The water temperature was 28 degrees F!  It was cold!  We jumped in and right back out but we can say we survived it.

They put a towel around us when we boarded and handed us a shot of vodka which we didn’t even taste!  We went and took a warm shower, dressed quickly so we could see others jump from the upper decks!  What adventures will tomorrow bring for us?