From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Day 4

This morning we ventured outside of Lisbon to the lovely mountain village of Sintra.

On our way we could see part of the Águas Livres Aqueduct. Its name translated to “Aqueduct of the Free Waters”. It was an example of 18th century Portuguese engineering. It was constructed because water was in scarce supply for Lisbon due to the growth outside its walls. Construction started in 1731.

Águas Livres Aqueduct

We were to visit the Pena Palace which sat on a steep hill. Well, the visit to the palace that we were looking forward to didn’t happen because the Portugal government closed it from July 27th to the 29th. This was due to a very high rural fire danger. The palace closure was part of a broader restriction of access to the Sintra Hills monuments. We will just need to visit Portugal again! Since we couldn’t see the Pena Palace, our guide made the best of it and we visited the National Palace of Sintra instead.

National Palace of Sintra

When approaching Sintra and the palace the first thing you noticed was the two champagne-bottled shaped chimneys. These were the smokestacks for the kitchen. They stood 108 feet. When we visited the kitchen in the palace we then understood why these were built.

National Palace of Sintra with the chimneys

Portugal’s first king, Afonso I Henriques moved into the palace after he conquered Lisbon in 1147. Additional additions over the following centuries created an architectural variety of styles from the Moorish to Manueline and Gothic to Renaisance.

Some of the highlights of our visit was the Magpie room (Sala das Pegas). It had many black and white birds painted on the ceiling. This was ordered by King João I (1385-1483). It represented all of the gossiping by the ladies at court after the king’s wife found him kissing one of them!

The Swan room or Great room (Sala dos Cisnes) was where João held his regal receptions. It was decorated in honor of his brother-in-law King Henry IV of England.

The grandest room was the Sala dos Brasões. It had a dome bearing the coats of arms of 72 noble familes. King Manuel I put his coat of arms in the center and at the top of the hierarchy. The coats of arms convey the identities of the individuals and demonstrated a clear form of social distinction.

Below was the Palace Guard room. It was where the ceremonial guards stood holding halberds because this was the access way to the palace.

Palace Guard Room

The Galley room was built on the orders of King João III (1502-1557). This room connected his chambers to the northwest wing of the palace. It might have been a gallery but no one knew for sure. The ceiling showed Portuguese, Imperial Ottoman and Dutch galleys from the 17th century.

Galley Room

The kitchen was a large historic space built in the 15th century. It served the entire palace and its large court.

The Royal Chapel or also known as the Palatine Chapel was originally built in the 13th century. It was enlarged in the 15th century and remodeled in the 18th and 19th centuries. The chapel served as a place of worship for the royal family and court. The ceiling was one of the oldest examples of “tracery” motifs, a complex radial and star-shaped geometric patterns.

The Anteroom of the Council Chamber which was also known as the Arab Room. It its center was a white marble basin within a square and this fountain dated back to the early 16th century. Later a group of sculptures of water-spouting mythical creatures were added.

Fountain and Basin in the Anteroom of the Council Chamber

We’ve included a slide show of additional areas of the castle.

From the castle we had some great views of Sintra.

Across from the castle and atop the hill we could see the ruins of the Moorish Castle which was surrounded by dense forest. Its fortification was founded in the 10th century when the Moors occupied the Iberian Peninsula. The wall’s blocks were made from granite.

We enjoyed some free time to wander around Sintra. We heard about a place to try ginga (also spelled ginjinha). Ginga was a Portugal liqueur specialty made from aguardente (brandy) that was infused with ginga berries (sour cherries), sugar and cinnamon. It was a sweet, dark red drink with 18-24% alcohol by volume. The place we went in served the ginga in small edible chocolate cups! It was good but one was enough for us. We were too busy enjoying the ginja to take a picture! 🙂

Cafe Paris opened in Sintra in 1945. We sat outside and the huge gluten free macaron with a raspberry filling was delicious. The others had custard tarts. We couldn’t believe the size of the macaron.

Câmera Municipal de Sintra was Sintra’s city hall in the center of the historic area. It was completed in 1910. It followed the Manueline style of architecture which included false battlements and beautiful arched Neo-Manueline styled windows.

Sintra’s City Hall

Our next stop was the seaside town of Cascais. It was one of Lisbon’s wealthiest suburbs. It was the summer retreat of the Portuguese nobility. Its beaches were popular. We noticed a lot of vacationers staying here and enjoying the beaches. It was situated on the Portuguese Riviera.

The home below was the home of Umberto II of Italy, the last king of Italy. He was exiled to Cascais after the Italian monarchy was abolished in 1946. Certainly not a bad residence for an exiled person.

Umberto II was exiled here

One could ride the carousel with horses, chickens, baskets and a chariot as its seats!

Carousel in Cascais

We found a lunch spot where we could enjoy our meal with a wonderful view. It was very warm but we had an umbrella for shade and a slight breeze from the Atlantic ocean.

Our lunch spot with a view.

We rode through Estoril. It was considered the home of spies. Ian Fleming, the most famous secret agent wrote his first James Bond novel, Casino Royale, based on his visit to the Estoril Casino. This casino was the largest in Europe and was known to be a convergence point for spies and exiled European royalty during WWII. Much of the movie was filmed in Estoril!

Casino Esteril

The Hotel Inglaterra was originally built in the early 20th century. Spies and exiled European royalty were known to stay here because Portugal was neutral during the war. It was a hub for espionage and during WWII spies from both the Allied and Axis powers were here.

We returned to Lisbon late in the afternoon. We then went to the Glória Funicular. It opened in 1885 and was electrified in 1915. This funicular railway connected the Pombaline downtown with the Bairro Alto. The Glória Funicular served over 3 million passengers up and down one of Lisbon’s steepest hills every year!

Glória Funicular

Next to the funicular was the São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint. Beautiful vistas could be seen from here.

Our Hop On Hop Off ticket included a night tour through Lisbon. Even though we were tired we didn’t want to miss this opportunity. It was well worth seeing the city sights and sounds after dark!

It was another full day exploring more of Lisbon and its surrounding areas.

From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Day 3

Portugal was known for its hand painted tiles called azulejos. Tiles were an important part of Portugal’s colorful and ancient history and culture. We saw these ceramic pieces on buildings and roadways everywhere. Even though tiles began in Egypt, Portugal was influenced by the Arab invasion in the 13th century and tiles were introduced and flourished by the 15th century. They were part of their artistic heritage and became integral to the architectural landscape.

Today was a “City of Seven Hills” tour. Our guide was Tiago. He would be with us the next few days. Our first stop was the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery) located on the banks of the Tagus River.

Jerónimos Monastery

This monastery was classified by UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) as a World Heritage site. It dated back to the 1500s. It was such an impressive building with its Manueline architectural style named after King Manuel I who ordered the monastery built. It’s limestone facades were rich with lavish architectural ornamentation. The Manueline style was prominent during the Portuguese Renaissance and Age of Discoveries. It incorporated maritime elements and representations of the discoveries of Vasco Da Gama and Pedro Alveres Cabral.

The detailed entrance was a visual masterpiece carved with saintly figures and characteristics of the Manueline style.

The Refectory had a low vaulted ceiling lined with azulejo tiles along the walls.

The cloisters was another highlight of the monastery. The cloisters were built to offer a tranquil space for meditating monks. The stonework was incredibly ornate.

It was a good thing we visited first thing in the morning because after our tour the lines outside were ridiculously long!

Long lines to visit the monastery

After our visit to the monastery our guides had a treat for us. They purchased the Pasteis de Belém, an authentic Portuguese custard tart. Those who had one said it was delicious. (Being gluten free, a different dessert was purchased from the bakery).

The bakery began making the original Pastéis de Belém in 1837. They still use the ancient recipe from the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. Only the custard tarts baked at their Antiga Confeitaria de Belém have the name Pasteis de Belém any others that you eat in Portugal are called Pastel de Nata. These custard tarts were the most popular sweet treat in Portugal.

We passed the Ponte 25 de Abril which was a suspension bridge in Lisbon. It was ofter called the “Golden Gate of Lisbon” because of its resemblance to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, California. Both had the international orange color. This bridge opened in 1966, thirty years after the Golden Gate Bridge. It was originally called the Salazar Bridge after Portugal’s prime minister and dictator at the time. When his government was overthrown in 1974 its name was changed to the date of the new independence, April 15th!

Ponte 25 de Abril

In front of the Monument to the Discoveries was a world map on the pavement. It showed the routes of Portuguese explorers during the Age of Discoveries. The map was a gift from South Aftrica in 1960.

Along the riverbank of the Tagus River was the Monument to the Discoveries. It stood 170 feet tall and commemorated the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator who discovered the Azores, Madeira, and Cape Verde. The monument was inaugurated in 1960. It represented a caravel, a small sailing ship, and leading was Henry the Navigator.

Belém Tower was a UNESCO World Heritage site. The outside of the tower was decorated in the Manueline style although it was difficult to tell because of its renovation to preserve its stonework and structure it was covered. It was originally built in the 16th century and was a coastal defense system to guard the mouth of the Tagus River and Lisbon. It also marked the spot where explorers started and ended their journeys.

Belém Tower along the Tagus River

The statue of Christ called Cristo Rei, opened its arms to Lisbon. It was inspired by the statue of Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro. The Catholic church in Portugal decided to have its own monument to Christ in Lisbon. The statue was unveiled in 1959.

We saw a Bordalo II, who was a famous street artist. He created art using garbage and his structures could be found throughout Lisbon, Portugal, and even internationally.

Bordalo II -Street artist work

After our morning tour we caught the “Hop On Hop Off” bus to see more of Lisbon on our own because we had the rest of the afternoon on our own. One of our stops was the Castle São Jorge located on the highest hill in Lisbon.

Castle São Jorge

Here we saw the archeological site that was still being unearthed, the 11 castle towers, fantastic views overlooking the city of Lisbon and much more. This fortress was built by Visigoths (a Germanic people) during the 5th century. The Moors (Muslim inhabitants) enlarged it in the 9th century. The castle was modified during Alfonso I of Portugal (1109-1185). He transformed it into a Royal Palace. In 1938 the castle was completely restored. It was in its glory from the 13th century to the 16th century. We saw the remains of the former royal palace, the beautiful gardens and part of the citadel from the 11th century.

As we walked through the beautiful castle gardens we saw peacocks, males, females, and babies.

There were beautiful views of Lisbon from the castle walls.

Rossio Square was a popular place for locals and tourists. It was characterized by its unique wavy cobblestone pattern! It gave the illusion of moving!

Rossio Square
In Rossio Square stood the column of Pedro IV who was known as the “soldier king”
Rossio Square- The Rossio Railway Station

We passed the Marques de Pombal Square several times because it was an important roundabout that many of the popular streets lead from it. In the center of the square was a column dedicated to the Marques de Pombal with a bronze statue of him on the top with a lion by his side that was a symbol of power. Lisbon was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake under the Marques’ direction.

At one of the entrances to the Jardim da Estrela, a beautiful park was a monument to Padro Alvares Cabral. He was a Portuguese explorer who was credited with discovering Brazil.

Padro Avares Cabral Monument (Rodolfo Bernardelli, 1940)

The Monumento aos Mortos do Grande Guerra translated to the Monument to the Fallen of the Great War. This monument was unveiled in 1931 and was dedicated to the soldiers of the Portuguese Army that died during WWI.

The monument to the fallen Portuguese Army soldiers in WWI

As we walked around Lisbon we saw tiles, azulejos, on buildings. Below are a few examples.

Trams were iconic in Lisbon. The yellow trams have helped locals and tourists navigate the many hills since 1873 and they became electric in 1901.

Lisbon’s yellow trams

In the evening we walked to SEEN, a rooftop bar that was recommended to us by our hotel lounge waitress. It was definitely the hotspot! You came here if you wanted to be seen! We visited because we wanted the views.

It was a very busy day! We saw so much more than we included in this post!