Italy- Vino, Views & Vacation Vibes: Day 8

After breakfast at our hotel we met our guide at the Piazza del Duomo. It was the main square in Milan with the Milan Cathedral (Duomo) dominating the view. There also were cafes and fashion shops.

We met our guide Barbara and our first stop was the Duomo. Construction began in 1386 and used a Gothic architecture and it took six centuries to complete! Officially in 1965 the cathedral was complete. The facade was made from marble and the Duomo could hold up to 40,000! It was 515 feet long and 302 feet wide.

Milan Cathedral

The Duomo has 135 spires and each spire was topped with a statue.

The most famous spire and statue was “The Madonnina” perched on the highest spire. It was completed in 1773 and placed near the end of 1774. It was copper and covered in gold. Before the start of WWII in 1939 the Madonnina was covered with a grey-green cloth and it stayed on throughout the war. It was covered so it wouldn’t provide an easy target for the bombers.

The Madonnina

Inside the Milan Cathedral were thousands of images and it was said that it housed a nail to have been used in the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. It had hung in the Cathedral since 1461 above the main altar. It’s marked by a red light. Once a year during the Rite of the Nivola and placed in a gilded wooden cross for all to see.

The Gothic interior had huge stone pillars.

The floor of the Duomo was a symmetrical flowered pattern. It was made completely marble and was constructed by Martino Bassi. The Candoglia marble slabs were inlaid together with Arzo red and black Vannera marble from Lake Como.

Marble Floor

The Duomo had intricate stained-glass windows. The oldest dated from the 15th century and the newest from 1988. There were three large stained-glass windows that depicted different scenes located in the Apse. The window on the left depicted scenes from the Old Testament.

Old Testament Books

The middle window had scenes from the Apocalypse.

The Apocalypse

The right window depicted scenes from the New Testament.

New Testament

This was the only original stained-glass window in the church.

The Cathedral’s organ was from 1938 and had 15,800 pipes, 2 twin consoles with 5 keyboards and 211 registers!

The statue of St. Bartholomew was sculpted by Marco d’ Agrate in 1562. He was depicted flayed, holding a knife- the instrument of his martyrdom. In his other hand he had the Gospel. His own skin hung from his shoulders down his body, his hands, feet, bearded face and his curly hair.

After visiting the Duomo, we walked through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II was a covered passage between the Duomo and the Teatro all Scala. It was the oldest shopping center in Italy. The Galleria was glass-topped and decorated with mosaics, caryatids, and had decorations that surrounded the windows and balconies.

We walked out of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II to the Teatro alla Scala (La Scala). The opera house from 1778 was considered one of the leading opera and ballet theaters globally.

La Scala

We walked through the prestigious Brera neighborhood on our way to visit the Sforzesco Castle.

It was a 15th century fortification that was built on the ruins of a previous medieval fortress. It was commissioned by Francesco Sforza. It was a beautiful complex and very large.

Sforzesco Castle
Map of the complex

Over time the Castle had many masters. Now the complex houses an Art Gallery, an Archaeological Museum, various exhibitions, libraries and archives.

After our visit to the Castle we walked to the Chiesa di Santa Maria Delle Grazie to visit Leonardo Da Vinci’s famous Last Supper.

The Last Supper was painted between 1494 and 1498. Leonardo painted it on the wall of the dining room of the former Dominican convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. It was protected by air treatment, a maximum of 35 people can go in at a time, and you have 15 minutes to observe and admire the painting. This visit was a highlight for us!

This gives you a size comparison of the room and the painting.

During WWII to protect this masterpiece from bombings, local officials built a protective barrier of sandbag, wooden planks, and scaffolding around the wall of the fresco. Thank goodness the wall was protected because an Allied bombing attack heavily damage the roof and surrounding walls. We saw pictures from the damage and it was extensive!

On the opposite wall of the Last Supper fresco was Giovanni Donato Montorfano’s Crucifixion that was painted in 1495. It was a detailed depiction of the Crucifixion.

Crucifixion

Montorfano’s fresco was more durable because he used the traditional fresco way. He applied the paint to wet plaster where Da Vinci used an experimental method on dry plaster.

Since we had concentrated on the historical part of Milan we decided to do the Hop On Hop Off Blue line which covered more of “modern” Milan. This route gave us a chance to explore the outer areas of the city. We’ve included a few of the sights.

The Palazzo della Societá Buonarroti-Carpaccio-Giotto was designed by Piero Portaluppi and built between 1926 and 1930. This building was unique because he designed an archway in the building. The ground floor was for commercial businesses, the first floor had offices, and luxury residences on the upper floors. There were seven floors in all. It was definitely unique.

Palazzo della Societá Buonarroti-Carpaccio-Giotto

The archway provided access to the road through the arch and a city park was located to the right of the picture above.

We also was the Milano Centrale Railway Station. It was the main station for the city. It also was the largest railway station in Europe by volume!

Milano Centrale Railway Station

We saw some of the skyscrapers and housing on our ride.

Palazzo Luraschi was a 19th century palace, 1887, and was built by Ferdinando Luraschi. One of its key features was the columns were used from the demolished Lazzaretto. The Lazzaretto was once the site of a large quaratine hospital.

Palazzo Luraschi

Palazzo Bocconi was another 19th century residential palace built in 1871. It retained the historic features but had been updated for modern use. The palazzo was commissioned by Ferdinando Bocconi. He was a wealthy merchant and he founded the Bocconi University in memory of his late son Luigi.

Palazzo Bocconi

Palazzo Rocca- Saporiti was another Neoclassical palace constructed from 1800-1812. It was commissioned by Gaetano Belloni who managed the gaming room at La Scala. When prohibition of gambling occurred he was forced to sell his residence to the Marquis Rocca Saporiti. The balustrade supports ten statues that depicted mythological deities.

Palazzo Rocca-Saporiti

The Monument ai Bersaglieri was sculpted by Mario Robaudi and was unveiled in 1973. It was a tribute to the Bersaglieri which was Italy’s famed light infantry corps. They were known for their agility and marksmanship.

Monument ai Bersaglieri

The Verziere Column was dedicated to “Jesus Christ the Redeemer” and was named Verziere which was the name of the street market that was located in this area until 1783. The column construction began in 1580 but completed in 1673.

The Verziere Column

When we finished we walked back to our hotel, dropped off our stuff and then we enjoyed a glass of wine at the Wine Bar near the hotel. Tomorrow we are up early for our excursion to St. Moritz, Switzerland.

Club Italy Vacation 2023 Day 6

Wednesday, June 7, 2023

Today was a very early morning (5:00 AM) start because we were going to Florence for the day.

The early morning view from our room.

Originally we were planning on driving but because of the traffic and no driving zones in Florence, it was decided to take the train to Florence. We had 8:15 AM tickets to the Accademia Gallery. I was the only person of our group to have seen the statue of David and that was in 1980! We all were looking forward to visiting the gallery.

We had to drive from the villa to the closest train station in Poggibonsi. Once we got the vehicles parked we made it to the train station to catch a train to Firenze Santa Maria.

Even though it was early, our group was all smiles and ready for our next adventure in Florence!

When we got off the train we had to walk quickly for our entrance into the Accademia.

We arrived a little after our timed entrance but we were able to get right in and of course our first stop was to see the stunning statue of David! It was as I remembered from 43 years ago and this time I didn’t have to view it over crowds of people.

David was sculpted by Michelangelo, 1501-1504. It stood about 17 feet tall and weighed a little over 6 tons and was carved in marble. The statue originally was placed in the public square in front of the Palazzo della Signoria. In 1873 it was moved into the Accademia Gallery. After our admiration of David we then explored the gallery on our own.

We saw more of Michelangelo’s works. The unfinished marble statue of San Matteo or St. Matthew (1504-08). We also saw the 4 Prigioni (the slaves or prisoners) and these statues were meant for the tomb of Pope Julius II. When you looked at them it appeared they were struggling to free themselves from the marble. The Palestrina Pietà was first believed to be carved by Michelangelo but experts now think it was a different sculptor because of the variations in the style. There wasn’t any documentation to support who was the sculptor.

Another room in the gallery was the finest 19th century collection of plaster casts and models by Lorenzo Bartolini and his student Luigi Pampaloni. This technique of using the plaster casts and nails that helped the sculptor put reference points onto the block of marble before carving into the stone. These casts showed how the gallery was originally used for teaching art students from the art academy next door. There also was a video we watched that demonstrated this process.

The musical instrument collection once belonged to the grand prince of Tuscany. This collection included a violin and viola by Antonio Stradivari and other unique instruments.

Below is “The Tree of Life” by Pacino di Buonaguida. This painting is based on the Book of Genesis and dates back to the early 14th century. This painting depicted Christ’s crucifixion as a tree with several branches extending from his body. And from each branch of the tree hung medals decorated with certain biblical events.

When we were finished with our visit we went to find a restaurant for breakfast/brunch because we hadn’t eaten. We found a restaurant that was opened and getting ready for lunch but they set up a spot in their back dining room for us.

After breakfast we walked around the Duomo and the Bapistry and had time to explore on our own. The Cathedral of St. Mary of the Flower or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Del Fiore was commonly known as the Duomo. Construction began in 1296 and took about 150 years to complete. The cupola was a terracotta-brick dome. It was constructed between 1420 and 1436.

As we explored around the main square of Florence we came across some points of interest.

When we met again we headed to the Sant’Ambrogio district because Joe(one of our group) shared an article about this local neighborhood that wasn’t over run with tourists. It was a short walk from the Duomo and Palazzo Vecchio. The article stated that this area was a “tight-knit” community and that it was still authentic Florentine. It’s also a multi-ethnic neighborhood. Florence’s first covered food hall was located here. We found a restaurant, Cibrèo Caffe in Sant’Ambrogio and had a delicious meal! And bonus this restaurant was mentioned in the same article and it talked about how it is a restaurant that is a stand-out in the area. The owner’s son explained that their philosophy was “if you visit Florence and see a Botticelli painting and Michelangelo sculpture, you should not have to then settle for a fast-food pizza or a sandwich on the street”! Here we experienced a traditional Florentine cuisine!

Exploring the quiet side streets of the area.

When you are walking around the area, make sure you turn around and look behind you. You never know what scenic sites you might see.

Even with taking the train into Florence we still had ove 18,000 steps but it was a great day spent in the capital of Tuscany’s region. We felt we experienced some of the Renaissance art period!

We took the train back to Poggibonsi, found our vehicles and drove back to our villa where we enjoyed some wine and discussed our highlights of the day before dinner.

Our meals at the villa were always delicious! After our five-course meal, they always served a shot of Grappa! Grappa was an alcoholic pomace brandy made in Italy and contained 35 to 60 percent alcohol by volume! It was grape based and was made from the left overs from winemaking after pressing the grapes.

Grappa