From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Day 10

It was another gorgeous but very warm day sailing the Douro River. We departed Pinhão early and went through the Bagaúste Dam lock by 7:00 AM. The difference in the water level was 84 feet.

Sailing along the Douro River

By 8:15 AM we were docking at the Lamego Pier and headed out for our excursion. We did the Holy Staircase Hike (686 steps) and then Bôlas de Lamego tasting!

Lamego, an ancient city, was located near the south bank of the Douro River. It was a small town in the heart of wine country and known as a pilgrimage town.

Our first stop was the O Escadório, the Holy Staircase and at the top of the staircase was the Santuário Nossa Senhora dos Remédies or the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies. The construction of the staircase was started in 1777 but it wasn’t completed until the 20th century. We reached the church by climbing the 686 awe-inspiring double staircase with 9 terraces. The terraces were a great place to stop for pictures and for us to catch our breath!

The Holy Staircase and the beginning was blocked by the trees!
The first set of steps!
Looking back at Lamego after crossing a terrace.

The terraces were embellished with azulejos (tiles), panels, chapels, fountains, obelisks and statues. It was amazing. We were so glad we did this hike. Please make sure you go through the slideshow of the terrace pictures. They all were unique.

The last terrace was considered to be the grandest and was called “Patio dos Reis” or the Courtyard of the Kings. It had a fountain of the Giants a little over 72 feet tall. It consisted of a cup with 4 Atlanteans on dolphins supporting an obelisk over 49 feet tall! It was decorated with Marian symbols and finished with a star.

When we reached the top of the staircase was the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies built in 1761 over the site of a ruined 14th-century pilgrim’s chapel. For those who weren’t able to do the stairs, the church could be reached by a road that wound its way up the forested hillside.

In early September pilgrims arrive by the thousands for Lamego’s Romaria de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios (Pilgrimage of Our Lady of Remedies). Many of these pilgrims climb the steps on their knees! Can you imagine doing that for 686 steps?

Once we were back down the hill we visited Casa do Presunto for a snack of ham, cheese and Lamego sparkling wine.

After our wine tasting we had time to explore some more of Lamego.

Outside of Lamego we had lunch at Quinta dos Viscondes Várzea (Viscounts of Várzea Manor. Our hostess was Countess Maria Manuel Cyrne.

Countess Maria Manuel Cyrne
Her Card

When we arrived we were served some of her wine as well as Bôlas de Lamego. Dave was able to try it because it was a culinary tradition from Portugal’s Douro region and was flaky, golden pastry with a savory filling like ham, chicken, seafood, etc… This was not gluten free for Kay.

The Countess grew up on this estate but her family had to sell with the fall of Salazar’s dictatorship. Being a countess was not a job in a socialist state. She became a teacher for 20 years and her husband also was a teacher. Maria was also making her own clothes and scarves and long story short her clothing business took off and she made enough to purchase back her family estate. Also, at the age of 50, she became pregnant through a clinic in Spain and had twin boys! Her husband and sons also help run the estate. She runs the estate as a country home, hotel, restaurant, event space, and cooking school.

The Countess gave us a tour of her country manor. These were just a few pictures from her home.

The Quinta was surrounded by the gardens, vineyards, and outdoor living spaces.

We had a delicious local lunch with state wines that was served by the staff.

Lunch in the restaurant

We arrived back at the Ama Douro in the late afternoon and then started down the Douro River and we went through the Carrapatelo Dam and lock. This was our last lock and it was 115 feet difference!

Our Captain Pedro, the Hotel Manager Ruben, and Cruise Manager André had a Gala Cocktail in the lounge and we met the entire crew of Ama Douro. We also experienced a Gala Dinner in the Dining room.

After dinner we were treated to a Tuna Show. A tuna was a group of students in traditional dress who played traditional instruments and sang serenades. This tradition was started in Spain and Portugal in the 13th century as a means for the students to earn money or food.

The Tuna that performed was Portuguese University students that sang, played instruments and danced for us. These young men were studying nursing or physical therapy.

The Tuna

We’ve included two short samples of their performance.

It was a great way to end our day!

From Lisbon to the Vineyards: A Douro River Experience- Day 3

Portugal was known for its hand painted tiles called azulejos. Tiles were an important part of Portugal’s colorful and ancient history and culture. We saw these ceramic pieces on buildings and roadways everywhere. Even though tiles began in Egypt, Portugal was influenced by the Arab invasion in the 13th century and tiles were introduced and flourished by the 15th century. They were part of their artistic heritage and became integral to the architectural landscape.

Today was a “City of Seven Hills” tour. Our guide was Tiago. He would be with us the next few days. Our first stop was the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery) located on the banks of the Tagus River.

Jerónimos Monastery

This monastery was classified by UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) as a World Heritage site. It dated back to the 1500s. It was such an impressive building with its Manueline architectural style named after King Manuel I who ordered the monastery built. It’s limestone facades were rich with lavish architectural ornamentation. The Manueline style was prominent during the Portuguese Renaissance and Age of Discoveries. It incorporated maritime elements and representations of the discoveries of Vasco Da Gama and Pedro Alveres Cabral.

The detailed entrance was a visual masterpiece carved with saintly figures and characteristics of the Manueline style.

The Refectory had a low vaulted ceiling lined with azulejo tiles along the walls.

The cloisters was another highlight of the monastery. The cloisters were built to offer a tranquil space for meditating monks. The stonework was incredibly ornate.

It was a good thing we visited first thing in the morning because after our tour the lines outside were ridiculously long!

Long lines to visit the monastery

After our visit to the monastery our guides had a treat for us. They purchased the Pasteis de Belém, an authentic Portuguese custard tart. Those who had one said it was delicious. (Being gluten free, a different dessert was purchased from the bakery).

The bakery began making the original Pastéis de Belém in 1837. They still use the ancient recipe from the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. Only the custard tarts baked at their Antiga Confeitaria de Belém have the name Pasteis de Belém any others that you eat in Portugal are called Pastel de Nata. These custard tarts were the most popular sweet treat in Portugal.

We passed the Ponte 25 de Abril which was a suspension bridge in Lisbon. It was ofter called the “Golden Gate of Lisbon” because of its resemblance to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, California. Both had the international orange color. This bridge opened in 1966, thirty years after the Golden Gate Bridge. It was originally called the Salazar Bridge after Portugal’s prime minister and dictator at the time. When his government was overthrown in 1974 its name was changed to the date of the new independence, April 15th!

Ponte 25 de Abril

In front of the Monument to the Discoveries was a world map on the pavement. It showed the routes of Portuguese explorers during the Age of Discoveries. The map was a gift from South Aftrica in 1960.

Along the riverbank of the Tagus River was the Monument to the Discoveries. It stood 170 feet tall and commemorated the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator who discovered the Azores, Madeira, and Cape Verde. The monument was inaugurated in 1960. It represented a caravel, a small sailing ship, and leading was Henry the Navigator.

Belém Tower was a UNESCO World Heritage site. The outside of the tower was decorated in the Manueline style although it was difficult to tell because of its renovation to preserve its stonework and structure it was covered. It was originally built in the 16th century and was a coastal defense system to guard the mouth of the Tagus River and Lisbon. It also marked the spot where explorers started and ended their journeys.

Belém Tower along the Tagus River

The statue of Christ called Cristo Rei, opened its arms to Lisbon. It was inspired by the statue of Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro. The Catholic church in Portugal decided to have its own monument to Christ in Lisbon. The statue was unveiled in 1959.

We saw a Bordalo II, who was a famous street artist. He created art using garbage and his structures could be found throughout Lisbon, Portugal, and even internationally.

Bordalo II -Street artist work

After our morning tour we caught the “Hop On Hop Off” bus to see more of Lisbon on our own because we had the rest of the afternoon on our own. One of our stops was the Castle São Jorge located on the highest hill in Lisbon.

Castle São Jorge

Here we saw the archeological site that was still being unearthed, the 11 castle towers, fantastic views overlooking the city of Lisbon and much more. This fortress was built by Visigoths (a Germanic people) during the 5th century. The Moors (Muslim inhabitants) enlarged it in the 9th century. The castle was modified during Alfonso I of Portugal (1109-1185). He transformed it into a Royal Palace. In 1938 the castle was completely restored. It was in its glory from the 13th century to the 16th century. We saw the remains of the former royal palace, the beautiful gardens and part of the citadel from the 11th century.

As we walked through the beautiful castle gardens we saw peacocks, males, females, and babies.

There were beautiful views of Lisbon from the castle walls.

Rossio Square was a popular place for locals and tourists. It was characterized by its unique wavy cobblestone pattern! It gave the illusion of moving!

Rossio Square
In Rossio Square stood the column of Pedro IV who was known as the “soldier king”
Rossio Square- The Rossio Railway Station

We passed the Marques de Pombal Square several times because it was an important roundabout that many of the popular streets lead from it. In the center of the square was a column dedicated to the Marques de Pombal with a bronze statue of him on the top with a lion by his side that was a symbol of power. Lisbon was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake under the Marques’ direction.

At one of the entrances to the Jardim da Estrela, a beautiful park was a monument to Padro Alvares Cabral. He was a Portuguese explorer who was credited with discovering Brazil.

Padro Avares Cabral Monument (Rodolfo Bernardelli, 1940)

The Monumento aos Mortos do Grande Guerra translated to the Monument to the Fallen of the Great War. This monument was unveiled in 1931 and was dedicated to the soldiers of the Portuguese Army that died during WWI.

The monument to the fallen Portuguese Army soldiers in WWI

As we walked around Lisbon we saw tiles, azulejos, on buildings. Below are a few examples.

Trams were iconic in Lisbon. The yellow trams have helped locals and tourists navigate the many hills since 1873 and they became electric in 1901.

Lisbon’s yellow trams

In the evening we walked to SEEN, a rooftop bar that was recommended to us by our hotel lounge waitress. It was definitely the hotspot! You came here if you wanted to be seen! We visited because we wanted the views.

It was a very busy day! We saw so much more than we included in this post!